Why? it's supposed to be a sealed system and the valve works with the air which is in the expansion tank , for example if you pump up a tyre to 1.4 bar and let it over night will it be no pressure in the morning?

the tank's cap has a pressure valve to keep 1.4 bar in the system so as long as the top hose doesnt become rock solid while driving and it runs cooler rather than hotter i dont think it's a HG problem which would create overheating or coolant loss

The mix must be 50% antifreeze(oat) / 50% water for the system to work as it should and choose the antifreeze temperature range based on that to achieve the desired protection, the refractometer test is irrelevant hence the note from the WSM...

Unfortunately i can't help you more with this as all i know to do on D4's is with a diagnostic tool, some programmings or pure electrical faults. When it comes to boost issues on these it's beyond my skills

the only one which seems OK these days is the PEM100990LR, that's what i have and as you saw the ECT is behaving well(with engine cover fitted and 50% OAT mix cos the coolant's concentration has some effect too)

It should have some effect IMO cos your's has a very strange behaviour exactly like you observed

You should try with engine cover on if you still have it, i cropped a section from an older log of mine when it was up to temp, the left column is the road speed and the right the ECT just to show that it's quite constant around 90 and so was the...

That's a bit strange, once up at normal running temp it's not supposed to drop so much at idle actually it should not drop at all, some questions: 1. the radiator is stock or some so called "uprated" alloy one? 2. what about the ECT sensor, is...

Seems very like one for vauxhall, see THIS

That's not a dedicated Discovery 1 rubber hanger for sure so you'll have to find some similar generic one if the original type are not good which means that maybe the exhaust was replaced too

Hi, IIRC the D1 electric seats adjutments are driven by cables like on the RRC and if it's so here's an ideea https://www.landroversonly.com/threads/broken-seat-motors-can-i-manually-adjust-them.41432/?post_id=340691#post-340691 so you might be...

I changed the flange when I did mine, it's cheap enough.

There are cases when even new seals can leak, for the reasons described: 1. https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/lt230-front-flange/ 2. https://ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/product/lt230-rear-flange/

As long as you dont get any response on output tests to the warning or solenoids with nanocom on a 100% good valve block you have to rule the ECU out first, discussions about the filter or hydraulics are futile

then the engine bay fusebox must be replaced and pray to be that before chasing some hidden short circuit in the harness or rewire that circuit which can be a nightmare

I can't confirm 100%, i forgot cos i marked the pipes with coloured tape both sides and made a scheme when i changed them so i just refitted them as they were before without thinking too much, seems that the RH side bottom port is for HP based on...

That's according to the LT230T(or Q) overhaul manual while there is no dedicated manual for the LT230SE fitted to D2 which has certain mods so maybe those who edited the figures in RAVE knew more... or not what's in the second attachment is...

Rely on THIS from now on (save it and open with acrobat reader)

Found where? it's exactly 148NM for both according to the workshop manual

You have to squeeze the plug at the middle close to the wires or grab and lift that side as to release it from those two pins...as about the fluid it's quite similar activity in ACE and PAS reservoirs

No, unplug the switch's brown connector and give 12V with a wire to the fusebox's pin where the yellow wire was connected from the switch and see if it cranks that way or not then the same test to where the green/white wire goes if you see what i...

Unplug the ignition switch's brown plug on the fusebox and give +12V with a wire to where the yellow wire goes from the switch, then to green/white and report the result.

Quite odd symptom though based on that it's still possible that the ignition switch harness is at fault and it misbehaves only under load when conncted cos the multimeter has no load hence the good readings

I dont think that the hydraulic side woud affect the ECU but as the output tests are all failing it must be ruled out before going further, then if no change it can become a bit complicated to diagnose so let's see what happens with a 100% good...

Then the ECU must be ruled out before anythig else, they are not the best engineering and not very uncommon failure most of them due to moisture or water ingress in the area

Couldnt check on mine with nanocom cos my son took the D2 and went skiing for a week... changing the ECU to rule it out would be a god move... what about the warning lamp test ?

I suggested to do those tests with the relay back in place too:

The pressure values are looking OK, as about the DCVs i think it should not be zero but at least 0.01... i don't know if nanocom is 100% reliable with this, i have hawkeye too and when it comes to ACE i'm using only that one but i'll check with...

I don't think so but possible as it got backflow then albeit i dont really know how that attenuator works... we'll know more when you tell the live pressure inputs

IMO main dealers know nothing these days about how the systems on these old vehicles are working, not much about the newer ones either other than changing the filters and oils in warranty... all they want is to sell vehicles and dont give a sh*t...