I just told you what is needed for further diagnose, the live inputs with bridged relay

First of all the SLABS has nothing to do with the ACE which has it's own ECU near the SLABS, nanocom used to give false codes when it comes to ACE so you can't rely on the codes only, you should find somebody with hawkeye or for nanocom remove...

Just an opinion based on how these things work on other vehicles cos i have no experience with disco sport: i dont think that a new BMS is just plug and play so even if you replace it a compatible diagnostic tool is needed as it's needed to reset...

The front sunroof drains definitely run down the A pillars, there is a right-angle grommet it pushes into that exits through the inner wing, roughly in line with the air intake.

Maybe if you tell what modell of disco it's about but if i guessed well and it's D2 start by replacing the interior fusebox

The only 100% certain way to rule out an alternator is with oscilloscope, it can charge well with a shot diode in the rectifier while it drains the battery over night but even if it's not that it can be a drain from other source and as long as...

Better measure the quiescent current draw before you fit a new one cos if it's excessive it can be caused by the alternator then you'll ruin the new battery

Do you see serious fluid activity in the tank at idle? ...if not the pump was not primed well or dead even though nanocom used to give false codes when it comes to ACE so you can't rely on the code, you should find somebody with hawkeye or remove...

Seems that you have a power supply issue cos beside those ridiculous redings the battery voltage shows 0 and the ECU would not work well with that... is that with the original ECU or with the remapped disco ECU? though why was the original ECU...

If the cranking symptom comes together with windows misbehaviour it's most probably the IDM fusebox hurt by corrosion, no other way to rule it out than replacing it with known good one which comes from same modell(facelift ot not)

hi thanks for this i found the issue,it was the Gate way module itself,it had 5 codes that would not clear. fitted a new one and all good. i opend the old module to fine a very small patch of corrosion on the circuit board causing all my issues...

Yes, you get a big feckin hammer and smash it to bits.:cool:

It depends on the brand, most of them are M12x1 but there are 11 or 10x1 too and who knows what thread have those where it's not mentioned... afaik TRW which was the OE is 12x1 but not shown ... https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/ftc5202