Brilliant, thank you!

I thought the headline read Jekyll & Hyde at first. Which I suppose it is. ;):)

I think I know what you’re referencing. It’s very possible that I’ve incorrectly fitted the clip on both sides as I watched a YouTube video on how to do it as well as my own intuition. I doubt the spindle would affect anything as the locking and...

With electrical faults on the FL2, getting the codes read is the first thing to do. The whole vehicle is controlled by computers, so that's the place to start. All door electrical functions are controlled by the door modules, so if there's a...

Best way to identify the issue is to use a suitable code reader.

Maybe double check F17 in the passenger footwell fuse box, just to make sure.

The latch at the actual lock. The movement from pulling the door handle is transferred into lateral movement. The plastic clip I'm referring to joins two rods and allows movement through an angle. Though it has to be said if both sides not...

If you hear an activity in the latch while you give any command with the fob or dash switch the problem is definitely not electrical and you might have bought two "tired" actuators which gave up the gost at the same time, it can happen with used...

I dont know what's the real problem but as long as they react to the fob it's nothing electrical that's certain

It has been a while, but if memory serves me it is on the linkage by the latch. A small plastic piece which grips the rod, allowing the rod to slide. Hard to explain, but it basically transfers the movement, so as handle is pulled sideways the...

This could suggest a missing or insecure cable clip. Little plastic bit which holds metal rod in place ? I know the Disco 2 rear pads can be removed with door closed, any chance you can climb over and remove front from inside ?

In that case, there should be a world wide recall of every vehicle fitted with the sh1t design fault. It can only be a matter of time before it causes a fatal accident.

I wouldn't be surprised to hear that Boeing use aluminium bolts. :(

Canada insisted that JLR replace all such bolts under warranty regardless of vin, age, etc :eek:

Unfortunately, for such a heritage to be lost to economy and bad decisions 😩

You'll be joining a que for that lad. It is as you now know, a known but not always recognized issue with a few Jlr vehicles... It's pretty poor really and it does nothing for their reputation.. I honestly don't know what to say to help but I do...

Is this with engine running ? If yes check that alternator and wiring. If it is when you first connect battery, it sounds like you have something going to ground. With battery disconnected use a multi-meter to check for wires going to ground...

Thanks everyone for your assistance. I just didn't want to do it wrong. Thanks for your help 👍

they only fit one way, you cant put the wrong plug in the wrong socket it just wont fit as it the space bars on the side show in your photos

Good point. I always fill until the pump stops itself. If it leaks during a partial fill that might help narrow the search for the leak. I'll try that today.

Hi Bee, we had a similar problem and spent ages and a fortune trying to figure it out. Turns out our issue was a leak from the windscreen (original not replacement!) apparently this isn't unusual? Screen was removed and refitted and problem went...

That fuel line is really expensive, over £300 when I looked, and the tank needs removing to get access to the fitting. I'd just splice in either a coupler, or use a length of rubber fuel line and hose clips. It's not under pressure, so doesn't...

Do you have a photo so we can take a look, i presume you could splice in a piece?

T The AC is automatic, running a lot, so the evaporator is always cold and condensing. If the drain tube is partially blocked, the AC can drip for hours after stopping the vehicle.

As Arctic suggests it is probably nothing to be concerned about, or you will have probably noticed. But saying that, you have what looks like a heat shield there so, possibly rubber or plastic pipes behind ? Clean the area shown and see if it...

Thanks guys for all the advice....turns out the lock was siezed and so was the replacement,actuator was trying to work but couldnt 🤬 good lock with only 75k on it and all is working great

Similar issue with rear door on D2, it was the plastic clip that holds the actuator rod.

This means that the electronic side is working cos the signal gets there... if the latch mechanism wasnt bran new but some scrapyard part send it back and ask for refund cos that's the problem...if the latch is new well speak again but not untill...

I'm presuming this is an FL1 Td4 ? if so there is a nut which you can tighten at the rear of the tensioner. Also only use corteco pulley if it needs changing. 1 New bolt be careful as some bolts are longer than others. 2 3 4 You should be...

They were secure; hidden in a locked and alarmed vehicle.