Accuracy of the system is not important, screwing the punter is. There are hundreds of complaints like yours, good luck getting it sorted.

Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out. Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.

Normally replace the clips, coat them on a little grease as it'll aid replacement and keep corrosion down👍

If you can before you buy it, hear it running from cold👍

No, there's nothing the risk to make you feel alive😜 Or pain🤔

Oh dear, one reason I wouldn't own any Landy with the 2.7d or 3.0d😕 If it is a crank issue they can crack the engine block due to the way the crank bearing blocks are bolted into the engine 🤯

but maybe disconnect the battery first

dont put the seat all the way back :) thats much cheaper

An hour tops, to cut and wire directly together. No more problems 👍 It would be handy to find out why it's disconnecting, maybe the wiring loom is in a bad position and it could happen again 🤔

Ok thanks

Right part but sounds expensive, try Conrad, Farnell or CPC. It's not something I would buy on Ebay and I do not know that brand so may be Chinese rubbish.

I lock mine in standard. Just let it settle at standard height and then press the inhibit switch next to the height switch and it will stay there. Data leaves his at motorway height but I am on Arnott 3 springs.

One on Arnott Gen 2 and one on Dunlops, both locked at motorway height on the dash button.

Thanks for the input about polishing. I actually was interested in the Ashcroft tc. But I’m not in the UK and with import duties and core deposit it is quite expensive. The core deposit equals the amount I would have to pay to ship the original...

Excellent!! 1 down, 24,393 to go :D

Yes i had an auto dip centre mirror go the same way.. got another off eBay

Yep that's where I've been searching but they're like hen's teeth. I think I struck it lucky when I found that other one.

Well done a bit of running around today and guess what, yep no problems. Plus a lot warmer today. I did give the block a really good spraying of soapy water checking for leaks, maybe got some into the electrics and with a good run round and...

A mechanic offered me to switch my EAS to coils for a decent price. Honestly I didn't even consider his offer because yes, while the EAS has more systems to take care of than springs and it can cause all sorts of problems and even leave you...

Here Here 👍 👍

As per everything on the L322, it's not that simple. Made less simple by only having one arm that functions almost properly.

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply. On mine...

many thanks for the info

Low battery could certainly cause problems if for example the apparent low voltage is due to bad earths, battery terminal connections or the live feed to the EAS ECU.

Thank you for your support. I changed it today - went great! Thank you!

That I understand 🤯

That would involve taking the glass out to get a smooth finish. Otherwise there will be an edge just inside the lip. also I'm a bit impatient, and OCD. Trying to get all the bubble out would just drive me nuts:vb-kaioken:

Could short runs and this cold weather causing low battery affect it in any way

If you want to play, fit a 200uf 63 volt 105C electrolytic across the power wires as close as possible to the driver pack and see if that fixes it. cheaper than a replacement pack.

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly. But do the capacitor mod...