You may want to skim through some of them, two of them are rather long documenting the whole build process most of which is not relevant to your original painting question!

I did not think t-wash was a true etch though hence I still used an etch primer on things that were getting a body coloured top coat. Everythign else is zinc 182 for as much protection as posisble.

New alternator arrived yesterday (my mistake, first one arrived Friday but realised I had ordered a defender one not a discovery one and they are handed opposite!) and was fitted today, all being well it should not require anything for a good wile now, but it was the britpart branded one rather...

No need to key the surface as it is a chemical reaction rather than needing to adhere to the surface like paint. This^^ I completely agree with. For the price and ease it is not worth the risk of not using it in my opinion. In terms of patio cleaner vs t-wash i have not bothered to look into...

I have done bulkheads, chassis and lots of galvanised brackets from YRM. The technique and order I use is: T-wash Primer Topcoat Dintrol The primer I use depends on the applications and part, I use an acid etch primer for body panels, and Zinc 182 for everything else. The choice of topcoat...

I glued my old fabric back on with impact contact adhesive and it has not sagged yet. There is clearly different fabrics used though as three out of four of the sections I have done this with have been fine, but the fourth reacted and wrinkled the fabric for some reason. But it is the rear...

Has it stood for a long time? Could be condensation? Also goes a pale pink emulsion colour if it is running low and filled wither bubbles. The power steering reservoir often looks like that but settles back to normal red atf.

need a little more information about how and when the sound occurs. Does it happen only when underload, or on overrun, does it happen when moving but in neutral, or with clutch pressed etc. Why do they think it is the axles not the main gearbox if they first thought it was the transfer box...

Mix it 1:4 with fresh diesel and run it in a tdi or any other old diesel! Mine is the same but last time they challenged my with a 25l drum of old oil, I continued emptying it while quoting and adding up the engine and gearbox quantities in the land rover (engine alone is more than 5l) and by...

It depends where it is leaking from. I have just repaired a leak on my 200tdi injection pump and it was just an o-ring in the blanking plate on the side. I have previously done the throttle spindle bush when it was leaking form there. Both of those are an easy fix and do not require removing the...

That's the same with the series, but as @tottot says disconnecting the battery from the alternator risks damage.

^^ beat me to it! These vehiels were not "concourse" when they left the factory. I would go far more with the usable, reliable, and tidy rather than perfect. if you make it perfect you will not want to use it properly. When I rebuilt my series III I did everything mechanically, new chassis and...

You can keep a tdi running with a 9v battery from a tv remote wired into the stop solenoid. They really are the old fashioned mechanical type that require virtually no power to run. On this I went with the safe option to protect the battery recommended by @Hicap phill on my other thread and...

That is a job for tomorrow. Right now I need to get it to a point where I can drive it with or without the engine charging the battery so I can get to work in Stoke later tonight. Have a separate thread asking about that specific issue!

That is all I put back. No idea what the black on was. Was much harder material than the green one. But doesn’t seem to be leaking anymore! Now just need to sort the alternator.