If the belt is correctly on all the pulleys and down properly, pushing the tensioner will just allow it to fit over the crank pulley. I usually get it half on and then relocate my tensioner spanner and bite a bit more turn.

Obvs take wheel off and plastic splash guard. Get comfy by wheel as it needs lot of control and effort to turn it enough.

15/16 inch AF spanner and extension bar. Fit around all top pulleys and idlers and tensioner. Make sure belt is down in grooves fully or it won't go on... Slide over crank pulley last. Don't put fingers between belt and pulley else if it slips you loose a finger or two !!

Local FL2 tried some 'off roading' !

What's the story ?? Replacement will be ? Where is it going ?

Having fitted a new clutch, new slave and attached this to a known working master cylinder I was not at all surprised to find the clutch bite was in the carpet. It has happened before but never really found not why it happens and how to fix it. Sort of got a solution by trial and error and not...

Good question !! Cut to fit but can measure and will post.

Maybe if not fired they are ok but their ability to close after opening and engine running ?? Just sharing thoughts....

Sounds like one or more injectors are dropping fuel (leaking) when engine off over time and causing overfuelling when started up.

Maybe your ecu connectors need cleaning for the F4 ?? Or a broken wire when changing the unit.

Courtesy of @Nodge68 F4 means the gearbox TCM (Transmission Control Module) has implemented its limited operating strategy (commonly called limp mode). This means the gearbox will be locked in 4th gear only (reverse is normally still available). The only way to find the cause, is to have the...

I detailed the reverse clutch change on a pre 2000 model. Yours should have the modified piston already. My (limited) experience with Jatco boxes is that an F4 and any slip are mechanical rather than electrical problems. I am surprised a change of ecu sorted the slipping. @Nodge68 had the F4...

Duplicate post.

Raises some questions ! Why did you change it? What was original fault ? Did you have F4 before the change? No coding needed but need the right one for the engine. TD4 or V6 etc..

Clutch appears to have sorted itself. I think if the master cylinder is open, pedal down, the air finds its way up. See how it goes. Then other technique I have used in the past is to remove the master cylinder, take the push rod off and compress the piston fully. The LR push rod has an plastic...