Maybe if not fired they are ok but their ability to close after opening and engine running ?? Just sharing thoughts....

Sounds like one or more injectors are dropping fuel (leaking) when engine off over time and causing overfuelling when started up.

Maybe your ecu connectors need cleaning for the F4 ?? Or a broken wire when changing the unit.

Courtesy of @Nodge68 F4 means the gearbox TCM (Transmission Control Module) has implemented its limited operating strategy (commonly called limp mode). This means the gearbox will be locked in 4th gear only (reverse is normally still available). The only way to find the cause, is to have the...

I detailed the reverse clutch change on a pre 2000 model. Yours should have the modified piston already. My (limited) experience with Jatco boxes is that an F4 and any slip are mechanical rather than electrical problems. I am surprised a change of ecu sorted the slipping. @Nodge68 had the F4...

Duplicate post.

Raises some questions ! Why did you change it? What was original fault ? Did you have F4 before the change? No coding needed but need the right one for the engine. TD4 or V6 etc..

Clutch appears to have sorted itself. I think if the master cylinder is open, pedal down, the air finds its way up. See how it goes. Then other technique I have used in the past is to remove the master cylinder, take the push rod off and compress the piston fully. The LR push rod has an plastic...

So we have a running engine. Haven't fitted the inlet or intercooler hoses yet as I want to clean the intercooler out first but turbo is whistling on reving and no leaks !! It has a bit of TD4 clutch syndrome. New slave fitted and the master worked when driven in on starter motor. But then I...

Driveshafts and subframe back on. Wishbones cleaned and painted with Poly boots on ball joints. IRD and Gearbox filled with oil. A good tip, easier to fill gearbox before fitting subframe if you have it removed for any reason. Anti roll bar repaired with collars to replace the rusted rings...

Reverse.

Thanks

Anyone recognise the vehicle in the 'gearbox end' photo ??

Here you go - engine bay shots, the bits that you can't easily see with the engine in place. Photos taken standing inside the engine bay with some key components listed to allow you to work out where you are looking ! TD4 Manual Facelift vehicle. Looking up at LH end of steering rack, top is...

Isn't your headlamp leveling on left of steering wheel ?? Any which way there is a blank on the opposite side to the level switch.

BTW. Grabber AT are noisey and slide about in the wet to the point that they scare me !!

I have 15, 16, 17 and 18 inch wheels on 4 different Freelanders. The 18 inch with 50 series tyres is best on the motorway but not good on pot holes. My 17 inch wheels with 225/65 Geolanders is by far the best ride and they last forever !! Well 40k and still good. Great in the wet too. So...

A solution that I came up with for USB and a useful battery voltmeter is this. https://ebay.us/m/e0yGIy It also fits in the right-hand spare blanked hole that is for LHD headlight adjustment. It is a tight fit but a touch with a file or sharp knife to remove molding marks and it looks great...

Replacement engine with working IRD now in car. Just have to connect it all up and rebuild the front subframe and wishbones, driveshafts etc. If I did it again I would remove the bolts holding the manual gear lever link arms on the bulkhead. These fit to the rods with the press fit ball ends...

Failed engine now out of car and on trolley with good IRD removed ready to fit to replacement engine and then pop the whole lot back in the car. Found a broken gearbox connector, 1st or reverse switch so fitted a spare plug to the loom. So the only ancillaries I left in the vehicle that is...