jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
no all at the same time pull rail off with injectors still secured ,once hot obviously as cold engines need extra fuel
no all at the same time pull rail off with injectors still secured ,once hot obviously as cold engines need extra fuel
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
Cool so differing amounts will show an issue. Re fuel regulator what should I do to test that or just replace if Injectors show odd fueling then retest?
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
either swap it for another or test fuel pressure at the rail after regulator ,fuel is governed by the amount of time injectors are open plus fuel pressure which isnt variable apart from regulator so too high a pressure would increase fueling
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Have you checked the air flow meter? If the AFM is faulty the ecu will go in to limp mode and will cause the engine to run very rich. It is also possible that if the air flow meter is dead, the ecu is not getting the right air flow signal under load and so it is not looking at the right load site in the fuel map causing the issue you describe. It might also be a good idea to check the ecu by substituting it for a known good one, you could do the same with the air flow meter - do a swap with a known good one and see what happens. If you do a search you should find information about how to check your air flow meter.
Temp sensor can be checked/tested with a multimeter, all you need to do is measure resistance.
Agree with what others have said, temp sensor is a common cause of running rich, unlikely to be fuel pump or pressure regulator which would be more likely to cause fuel starvation.
Temp sensor can be checked/tested with a multimeter, all you need to do is measure resistance.
Agree with what others have said, temp sensor is a common cause of running rich, unlikely to be fuel pump or pressure regulator which would be more likely to cause fuel starvation.
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Just one other quick thought on this. You say you're getting a loss or lack of power and exhaust smells rich. Do you also get a mis-fire?
I'm just wondering if you have an ignition fault in there. Check the condition of everything - dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads, coil, all connectors (make sure they are clean and tight) and lastly the ignition amplifier. If you decide to replace cap and arm make sure you use only genuine parts - please don't use pattern ignition parts. Check/set ignition timing.
If your ignition amp is on the side of the distributor and it is of any age it may well be that is the problem, they are known to misbehave when hot.
You might also want to think about maybe removing and cleaning the plenum and ram housing, might also be worth cleaning the flame trap and rocker breather as well.
HTH
I'm just wondering if you have an ignition fault in there. Check the condition of everything - dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads, coil, all connectors (make sure they are clean and tight) and lastly the ignition amplifier. If you decide to replace cap and arm make sure you use only genuine parts - please don't use pattern ignition parts. Check/set ignition timing.
If your ignition amp is on the side of the distributor and it is of any age it may well be that is the problem, they are known to misbehave when hot.
You might also want to think about maybe removing and cleaning the plenum and ram housing, might also be worth cleaning the flame trap and rocker breather as well.
HTH
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
I'll check Maf. Temp sensor is new and working!
It's not really missing but revs jump all over the place and it is hesitant then surges then hesitant then surges. All ignition system is new and Fanny fitted it with care. There's a sound like a short kind of sound that can happen when its playing up! Heard that when driving with the bonnet off!
classic kev
Well-Known Member
Sounds most intriguing. IIRC you said something about a smell of petrol - have a careful check of the fuel lines. If you have got the original steel fuel pipes they may have rotted out and you actually have a leak. Have a good look from the fuel filter back to the tank, the pipes where they sit on top of the chassis rust, also remove the inspection cover in the boot floor and look at the connection to the fuel pump, the pipes rot here as well. HTH
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
Will be checking fuel lines as well that could well be the issue if my 14CUX system is able to realize the fuel air mix is wrong it would lead to an over fuel at lower speed IE. idle.
Have you checked the exhaust, sometimes baffles can collapse in a silencer restricting flow (same with CATs if fitted). Get someone to rev it up while you feel the gasses coming out the back, though not always easy to tell!!
You can also detach the exhaust after the CAT (or CATs) & try it up a hill. A bit noisy but it eliminates the blocked exhaust theory
You can also detach the exhaust after the CAT (or CATs) & try it up a hill. A bit noisy but it eliminates the blocked exhaust theory
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
Have you checked the exhaust, sometimes baffles can collapse in a silencer restricting flow (same with CATs if fitted). Get someone to rev it up while you feel the gasses coming out the back, though not always easy to tell!!
You can also detach the exhaust after the CAT (or CATs) & try it up a hill. A bit noisy but it eliminates the blocked exhaust theory
I Did smack the center box on a rock it has a gnarly dent in it.
SnowmanV8
Well-Known Member
Worth a try then, it doesn't cost anything. Unless you need a silencer of course
Mines looking like **** so will put a straight through section on
Any1 local to bs49 got a decent ecu and battery?
