Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
It looks great, you've done a good job there. I hope your landy don't let in rain though, otherwise you are going to have a problem in the not too distant future.
Col
Col
Ironstrike
Well-Known Member
It looks very neat! No prices on their website
A1yxll80
Member
Ohhh I know I’m going to tackle the roof and see where we go from there otherwise it’s for summer
haha
flat
Well-Known Member
I fitted the same to my defender, the difference was amazing.
As for wet floors, the mat doesn’t absorb water so if I get wet inside I just peek back the floor bits until it’s dry - I put my wheel chocks in to hold the mat up and it dries no problem.
I painted a layer of that black waxoyl stone chip paint underneath aswell so if any water does get underneath it doesn’t sit against bare metal
As for wet floors, the mat doesn’t absorb water so if I get wet inside I just peek back the floor bits until it’s dry - I put my wheel chocks in to hold the mat up and it dries no problem.
I painted a layer of that black waxoyl stone chip paint underneath aswell so if any water does get underneath it doesn’t sit against bare metal
Landys have a terrible problem with leaking and water gathered in the footwells. As posted I hope it remains dry cos otherwise it’s just a sponge and it’ll accelerate rot in about two years. I’ve done my bulkhead and since then I’ve not refitted the floor mats to avoid such a problem. Whatever water gets to the floor evaporates.
flat
Well-Known Member
Except the wrights off road mat is closed cell solid rubber and doesn’t absorb the water like the original type foam backed sound deadening does.
Mine has been in a good few years, 5 or so and it hasn’t accelerated rot
Colthebrummie
Well-Known Member
The problem isn't just the matting absorbing water, the water gets trapped between the matting and floor and never gets a chance to dry out.
Col
flat
Well-Known Member
Unless your diligent enough to lift the matting, propping it up, to allow it to dry as mentioned in my earlier post. The mat doesn’t absorb water so it’s just surface water on the floor which dries comparatively quickly
Doesn’t take long, and can be as simple as shoving a piece of wood underneath to lift the mat up so the water can dry.
300bhp/ton
Well-Known Member
What sort of money is this? I can't see any prices for it. Thanks.
Riggwelter
Active Member
Here is how you fit Wright's version. Exmoor Trim produces something similar. And here is how Steamwally fitted Exmoor's version. Steamwally also analyses the benefits of soundproofing here.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
How did you manage on the seat box while still providing access to the 3 removable lids and does it get in the way of checking / filling gearbox oils is this confined to working from below now
Cheers
Flossie
Well-Known Member
You have to cut the panel holes out and fix them to the lids.
I popped into a scrappy quite a few years back just to have a mooch about like you do.
Fresh in was a accident damaged 90 truck cab with that floor covering in it.
The seatbox part wasn't there (seatbox and floor mats sold separately) but the floor part was.
Offered the bloke £5 and he said ok.
Still in my 110 now, very tough stuff but a pain to remove as it's one big piece, 2 people helps.
I did price up the seatbox covering at the time but decided it was too expensive.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
What a bar,gain you got there, I think they’re in 3 parts now , bulkhead floor and seat box so that should be easier, one of my lids for passenger fuel tank has a little catch on which will be awkward
What would be a good adhesive to use
What would be a good adhesive to use
A1yxll80
Member
I don’t think you need to use adhesive, I haven’t on my as they all fit on top of each other and it’s a decent weight in its self! Bloody a 5ver defo got a bargain there just make sure you have plenty of Stanley blades as it’s thick stuff to get through when cutting for the seat box
