Hate to say it ,but that input shaft looks nasty to say the least .even with the prop off it might try to spit it out ,and any oil thats left in it
Good luck with thatI can get there without too much drama.
If you're going to drive it to the garage, might be best to leave the prop in place, could be holding it all together, just a thought but,
with the pinion flapping about, could it jam the diff ?
Could the garage collect it when you're ready to get it done?i did wonder about that but it sounds dreadful but I don’t want to cause any more damage to gearbox or cv joints or whatever might be next to fail…
@Mukiwa ère you go mateyTo hooom it may concern ,theirs a diff overhaul kit on e bay for £85 if any ones needing a project..,,,,i m running away ....
It requires a lot of steady pressure to get the wheel to turn and the movement will be very slow. I have no idea what a newton metre is but you need to lean on a 3 foot bar with a lot of pressure to get movement.Hi Folks,
Just a wee update (and cry for help through gnashing teeth)
managed to source what I was assured was a 'good' transfer box and front diff and dropped them and the beast off at the garage a fortnight ago.
Got her back yesterday, they'd swapped everything over and I asked whether the VC on the replacement box was ok and they said it was.
Went for a short drive and there were a few more whines than I remember and, worryingly, a squeak from the steering.
decided I better check the VC myself, and egress where I need your help to let me know if I've done anything stupid or missed anything.
Put car in neutral, handbrake on, jacked up front o/s wheel as it cleared the ground, it span round. (indication of wind-up ?).
popped a breaker bar on a wheel nut and, other than a bit of 'play' couldn't shift the wheel at all. tried a torque wrench at 130NM -nothing.
does this mean the replacement VC is also f**ked ?
Is there any way to test these things before fitting ?or is the on-car test the only way ?
beginning to wish I'd just paid Ashcroft £700 for a reconditioned box as their VCs are around £300 -unless anyone has a reliable source if good used / recon VCs....
very glum and about a grand out of pocket
Thanks again
Bob
It requires a lot of steady pressure to get the wheel to turn and the movement will be very slow. I have no idea what a newton metre is but you need to lean on a 3 foot bar with a lot of pressure to get movement.
What made you decide to change the transfer box? They are very reliable and rarely give trouble.
If the VCU is seized it can cause failure of the front diff but doesn't as far as I'm aware cause any issues with the transfer box.
I doubt 95lbft is enough but my torque gauge doesn't go that high, I put a 1/2 inch bar on a socket on the hub nut and add a length of scaffold pole I check at every service.maybe I need to try again…with sustained pressure on the bar for a period of time.
130NM is approx 95 lbft of torque.
I left the descision on the box / VC up to
The garage and said if the old box was ok, just do the VC but they did the whole box.
I suppose I was just a wee bit worried as it had destroyed both the rear and front diffs.
Ashcroft seem to list. A bench test before fitting the VC so you can tell
Whether it’s good or not before spending 4+ hours fitting the damn thing !
will speak to them on Monday
maybe I need to try again…with sustained pressure on the bar for a period of time.
130NM is approx 95 lbft of torque.
I left the descision on the box / VC up to
The garage and said if the old box was ok, just do the VC but they did the whole box.
I suppose I was just a wee bit worried as it had destroyed both the rear and front diffs.
Ashcroft seem to list. A bench test before fitting the VC so you can tell
Whether it’s good or not before spending 4+ hours fitting the damn thing !
will speak to them on Monday
130nm is way more than should be required. You tease it around ever so slowly. A refurbed one can be turned using the hub-nut using 70nm set on the torque wrench (on my manual box anyway).
If it needs 130nm I'd say it is buggered or bot far off.
And yes, if you check the Ashcroft's website I think it tells you how much you need to test it if direct on the end or off the car. Not a lit but cannot recall the exact number.
In that case, I would say that the VCU is seized.I was standing on the breaker bar (and I’m not exactly ‘slight’ and I didn’t really detect any movement at all -and was worried about over-tightening the wheel nuts
Then use the hub nut.I was standing on the breaker bar (and I’m not exactly ‘slight’ and I didn’t really detect any movement at all -and was worried about over-tightening the wheel nuts
Don't call him a nutThen use the hub nut.
I was standing on the breaker bar (and I’m not exactly ‘slight’ and I didn’t really detect any movement at all -and was worried about over-tightening the wheel nuts