Don't seal it at all. Fit ECOTILES
Not doubting you on this Bob, you are spot onIn the last 20 years I have supervised the building of thousands of apartments and houses. There aint many concrete floor types I haven't come across. A concrete slab floor does dry. After its cured. It can cure under the sea if necessary but we are talking a slab floor so it cures then dries.
I have had slab floors smashed out several months after a house was occupied to investigate drainage problems and it was still wet in the center. Not soft, not just as it left the truck but wet, moist, sodden, damp, not dry. The ones that had been tiled too early or had lino laid stank. Moisture had gathered within the concrete right under the surface. In fact contractors now insist on a coat of epoxy sealer on the floors before they lay vinyl as they are sick of being brought back to re lay vinyl time and time again. The epoxy does not get rid of the water it just keeps it in the concrete and not loosening the vinyl glue.
Take it to the bank. Im a doctor.
or just use an admixture waterproofer....
Not doubting you on this Bob, you are spot on
Did they use clean sand or pea stone as a base for the concrete or straight on the soil. Concrete is a good wick for moisture, and moisture will travel from bottom of concrete to the surface. Just lay a piece of cardboard or wood and come back in a week and lift it up and see.
Jack stands, engine hoist and floor jack would really roll good on that
http://www.ecotileflooring.com/faqs/I take it you looked at the raised disc They do a smoother one !
Its fitted at :-
Northampton Police HQ Garages
Toyota Derby
Act in haste repent at leisure :smash:
Ere we go.................
Chemicals added to concrete PRAs to stop damp do not work for hand poured slabs. They can block pours to eliminate moisture ingress but need other elements in place to work. They just dont bridge the gaps in un uniform concrete with aggregates added. Like trying to fill a sponge with petrol using a paint brush.
The other problem with PRAs is they can seal from the outside trapping the moisture within. Just what you dont want.
Not bad in fine render when tanking but ****e in concrete.
or you can buy specific concrete sealer or just buy floor paint
No. You can just keep buying sealer and floor paint. Just the same but more expensive.
I remember working for a pub outfitters many moons ago and the biggest problem was finding a floor finish that was low maintenance but looked good.
They had tried everything over the years. Reps would queue up in droves to flog the latest high tech coatings for timber flooring. Not one worked better than another. This went on for the four years I was with them and eventually when all the sales men sorry I mean experts had buggered off they started laying India stone paving inside. This went black with spilt beer within weeks so the salesmen returned with arms full of sealers and polishes and strippers. And on and on and on.
Floors are high maintenance. Live with it.
Im just giving 30 years experience to someone who asked.
Builders have many approaches and many work to some extent or another.
I often chuckle at new techniques and products. The old ways have often evolved over many generations and taken thousands of trials and errors to perfect.
Then some spotty ex grammar school kid who cant knock a nail in sits in his office and makes a discovery that he thinks no body has tried before. Once a marketing company get hold of it it becomes the best thing since sliced bread and the masses believe the hype and empty their bank accounts to buy into it. Thats why we are currently making new homes out of ****e.
The fact is you know nothing about laying or painting concrete but continue taking stabs in the dark with useless and expensive suggestions. Its your right to do that of course and I enjoy the entertainment, so thank you for your lame contributions.
If thats nuts................ :bounce: