petrol/diesel??
seriously impressed especially with the lovely v8 burble ha ha.
Looks good. Now service the transmission and check the nearside rear quarter for moisture ingress.
Thanks for the comments chaps - yep its the 4.4 V8 with LPG. Best of both(ish)
My next post was actually going to go something along the lines of is there preventative maintenance/recommendations that i should aware of ha ha.
how come the nearside and not offside too just out of interest?
Nearside is full of expensive electronics and is known to leak wrecking them..!!
As for preventative maintenance - replace everything, then budget to replace it all again in 12 months time
No - in all seriousness - change the Gearbox oil and Filter as the first thing, primarily so you can check the condition of the oil - the boxes on these beasts are notorious and expensive weak point...
Next, change the PCV Valve if it asn't been done - failure of this can over pressurise the Sump and cause massive damage to the engine in the worst case.
Next is a good flush of the cooling system and check the bottom of the rad gets warm - they get silted up due to the design (bottom hose isn't actually at the bottom - so crap builds up)
They are awesome to drive and own - yes tey have niggles, but aslong as you can spanner your own repairs the costs ain't too bad....
Oh and finally - get yourself some form of Diagnostics, will save you a bloody fortune.
Budget end - All Comms £200-220
Mid Range - IIDTool, Bearmach Hawkeye, Lynx - £280-350
Fecking top notch - Faultmate Extreme - £1,000 odd...but
I was having a look at some of your guides on this sort of stuff, quite happy with the spanners-rebuilt a mk1 golf gti(not even in the same league i know) a good couple of years back and have a 1993 Corrado to.
Your guides look really well written and photos always help ha ha. Which one would you recommend doing first?
Cheers.
Ah gotcha, take it i'm looking for moisture around the back of the indicator lens?
Thanks for the comments - I try to help as best I can, these are expensive beasts and without the help and support of this forum and its members owning one can be a heart-breaking road....so if I can help others by giving the benefit of my experience and mistakes - glad to....I was having a look at some of your guides on this sort of stuff, quite happy with the spanners-rebuilt a mk1 golf gti(not even in the same league i know) a good couple of years back and have a 1993 Corrado to.
Your guides look really well written and photos always help ha ha. Which one would you recommend doing first?
Cheers.
No, but that is a problem too. You need to remove the trim in the boot nearside, behind it there is a load of electronics, as with all Range Rovers, there will be a rainwater leak, on the P38 it fills the footwells, on the L322 it fills the electronics in the rear quarter and the spare wheel well, the latter can knacker the compressor.Ah gotcha, take it i'm looking for moisture around the back of the indicator lens?
:hysterically_laughi:hysterically_laughiand steering column issues and door handle issues and corrosion issues and HID igniter/ECU issues, ans suspension bush issues and and and..................................Thanks for the comments - I try to help as best I can, these are expensive beasts and without the help and support of this forum and its members owning one can be a heart-breaking road....so if I can help others by giving the benefit of my experience and mistakes - glad to....
Definatly do the Gearbox Oil first as it is best to check this out....68K miles is about the time it should be done in anycase....
Some advocate 2 yearly/30K intervals - whilst ZF originally indicated Lifetime (10 years) but have since revised this to 50K miles....
The L322 suffers from GB issues, so changing out the fluid and filter will give an indication of how the box is behaving.
NEVER EVER use WD40 on electrics, use contact cleaner. The LR mod is an expensive piece of plastic over the electronics, a Tesco bag is just as good. However, if water is allowed to accumulate in the well, condensation will still kill the electronics.i'm well aware of land rover corrosion issues, additional rust proofing is on the list of 'to do's'.
Whats the best cure for the leak then? find the source obviously and cure, and then waterproof electrics(wd40?)