GJ1
Active Member
Funny.... thanks @discool just back from work, on my own so thought i’d go and have a look... only just picked this up, thank you! Trim out, handbrake and transfer box boots removed... sadly I seem to have a lower spec than yours.... no double sided tape!!! Just need to get somebody to refinish it now... will do the boots in the meantime...
GJ1
Active Member
Not really a priority for me either, but makes such a difference to the interior. Also does not involve ramps, diagnostics or extensive tool selections.
Mine is an auto, and D2 F/L - not sure if it's any different to yours. Mine was held in by the transfer box and auto box gaiters and trim, along with 2 hidden clips on the reverse up behind the switch part of the panel.
1) Remove transfer box gaiter, remove handbrake gaiter (maybe not necessary), remove auto selector (put into "D" and pull up hard and it pops out, remove trim around base of auto selector - pulls up, but careful with the wiring and also the "track" for the cover that moves with the selector as this heads towards the back of the vehicle under the centre console, remove cigarette lighter (just the lighter part that pokes out) just to give you more room to get the trim out.
2) Pull the wood up at the front of the console, I levered it where the transfer box reveal was so I didn't damage any of the visible wood.
3) The rear of the trim has two hidden sharp metal tangs on the reverse that fit up behind the cubby box panel where the switches are located, so manoeuvre it down to clear these and out to give access to the switches. (only reason I mention sharp is that you don't know they are there, and they are very effective at cutting fingers.......)
4) Cleaned the blood from the switches and wood trim (optional stage)
5) Removed each switch connection in turn, also removing the switch itself from the wood trim (push out) and then reinserted the connection back into the switch (windows, isolator and heated seats) and left them hanging there in the void.
6) Wood trim free from vehicle.
I used a product specifically designed for scratches on bodywork, reasoning that the cellulose or polyurethane varnish would respond in the same way as paint. Whilst it did not remove the one or two real deep scratches, it totally removed the "haze". Then gave it a polish. I'd say 95% better, without the effort of sanding and refinishing, really mirror smooth. I didn't trust myself to to a total strip and re-finish - I knew I'd just end up with something worse that it was to start with!
For a 13 year old car, its a good as you could want.
Mine is an auto, and D2 F/L - not sure if it's any different to yours. Mine was held in by the transfer box and auto box gaiters and trim, along with 2 hidden clips on the reverse up behind the switch part of the panel.
1) Remove transfer box gaiter, remove handbrake gaiter (maybe not necessary), remove auto selector (put into "D" and pull up hard and it pops out, remove trim around base of auto selector - pulls up, but careful with the wiring and also the "track" for the cover that moves with the selector as this heads towards the back of the vehicle under the centre console, remove cigarette lighter (just the lighter part that pokes out) just to give you more room to get the trim out.
2) Pull the wood up at the front of the console, I levered it where the transfer box reveal was so I didn't damage any of the visible wood.
3) The rear of the trim has two hidden sharp metal tangs on the reverse that fit up behind the cubby box panel where the switches are located, so manoeuvre it down to clear these and out to give access to the switches. (only reason I mention sharp is that you don't know they are there, and they are very effective at cutting fingers.......)
4) Cleaned the blood from the switches and wood trim (optional stage)
5) Removed each switch connection in turn, also removing the switch itself from the wood trim (push out) and then reinserted the connection back into the switch (windows, isolator and heated seats) and left them hanging there in the void.
6) Wood trim free from vehicle.
I used a product specifically designed for scratches on bodywork, reasoning that the cellulose or polyurethane varnish would respond in the same way as paint. Whilst it did not remove the one or two real deep scratches, it totally removed the "haze". Then gave it a polish. I'd say 95% better, without the effort of sanding and refinishing, really mirror smooth. I didn't trust myself to to a total strip and re-finish - I knew I'd just end up with something worse that it was to start with!
For a 13 year old car, its a good as you could want.
GJ1
Active Member
Just ordered some gaiters from a well known trim supplier - been told there is a 4 to 6 week wait after I placed the order!
