David Moore
Member
Hi all,
I've just changed the head gasket on my K Series 1.8 and now it wont start. I have spark and I have fuel so I tested the cam position sensor and that's where I'm out of my depth.....
A bit of history, the guy I bought it off sold it cheap because the head gasket had just been done but was still overheating (there was a garage receipt), I assumed it was something easy like an air block and thought I got a bargain but no it has been a mare from the start, (I had an MGF for years so I've done this before).
Before I changed the head gasket I had coolant in the oil, a leaking water pump seal and all sorts of dash lights coming on. Hawk eye diagnosed a temp sensor and O2 sensor. There was a host of other jobs that needed doing to, exhaust mid section, track rod ends etc but nothing that would affect the ignition.
When I stripped it I found the guts of the thermostat had been removed and the gasket hadn't actually been changed it looked like someone had just torqued the head down another 180 degrees and it was in a right state (old type) but at least the head was flat so no skim needed. I put in the MLS head gasket and reassembled with all the new parts in the kit. I had a lot of problems getting the new Cam Belt on, when everything was set to the marks the belt was about half a tooth out so I couldn't get it tight down the front edge without turning the crank about 2 or 3 degrees, I don't know what the tolerance is so I don't know if this is significant.
Anyway, there is pressure in the fuel rail, I used the Hawkeye to test the injectors and they all work, I have spark in all four cylinders I also did a live test on the cam and crank sensor and got "cam sync lost". I tested the cam sensor but I'm not sure if A, I'm doing it correctly or B, its actually duff. I have permanently live in the live feed with and without the ignition on, earth is OK with continuity to the battery and the body, when I test the resistance the multi meter flashes 1984 briefly (I don't know if it should flash or stay on?). When I turn it over I have a permanent 11.9v from the middle wire again I don't know if this should be permanent or it should pulse?
I think I've checked all the obvious stuff, fuel trip switch etc but I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination. Any and all advice is most welcome
I've just changed the head gasket on my K Series 1.8 and now it wont start. I have spark and I have fuel so I tested the cam position sensor and that's where I'm out of my depth.....
A bit of history, the guy I bought it off sold it cheap because the head gasket had just been done but was still overheating (there was a garage receipt), I assumed it was something easy like an air block and thought I got a bargain but no it has been a mare from the start, (I had an MGF for years so I've done this before).
Before I changed the head gasket I had coolant in the oil, a leaking water pump seal and all sorts of dash lights coming on. Hawk eye diagnosed a temp sensor and O2 sensor. There was a host of other jobs that needed doing to, exhaust mid section, track rod ends etc but nothing that would affect the ignition.
When I stripped it I found the guts of the thermostat had been removed and the gasket hadn't actually been changed it looked like someone had just torqued the head down another 180 degrees and it was in a right state (old type) but at least the head was flat so no skim needed. I put in the MLS head gasket and reassembled with all the new parts in the kit. I had a lot of problems getting the new Cam Belt on, when everything was set to the marks the belt was about half a tooth out so I couldn't get it tight down the front edge without turning the crank about 2 or 3 degrees, I don't know what the tolerance is so I don't know if this is significant.
Anyway, there is pressure in the fuel rail, I used the Hawkeye to test the injectors and they all work, I have spark in all four cylinders I also did a live test on the cam and crank sensor and got "cam sync lost". I tested the cam sensor but I'm not sure if A, I'm doing it correctly or B, its actually duff. I have permanently live in the live feed with and without the ignition on, earth is OK with continuity to the battery and the body, when I test the resistance the multi meter flashes 1984 briefly (I don't know if it should flash or stay on?). When I turn it over I have a permanent 11.9v from the middle wire again I don't know if this should be permanent or it should pulse?
I think I've checked all the obvious stuff, fuel trip switch etc but I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination. Any and all advice is most welcome