No, I don't think so....but it cetainly won't start with the wrong pump top on....
I can only assume the loss of crank is due to either a Sync issue between the BeCM and Engine ECU (Need diagnostics to cure) or the requirement for EKA code to be entered....
Sync issues can be spotted by....
Some Model Years Crank but don't start, CEL light illuminated
Some Model Years Crank and the CEL doesn't illuminate during the Bulb Check
Some Model Years don't Crank, CEL light illuminated
Some Model Years don't Crank and CEL doesn't illuminate during Bulb Check
Trouble is I don't know which way round it is or which model year does what....
Best Option, Wammers knows his mustard when it comes to the Diesel engines....
Freediscoranger
Active Member
Right well ill just work my way through current suggestions and cry if they don't work! Hopefully wammers will see this tomorrow morning or something before I call dad and give him the bad news!
Firstly you need to swap the top half of the injector pump for the one from the original engine. The BMW electronics are not compatible with the Range Rover ECU and will not work. You could change pumps but you need special tools to remove it, hold sprocket in position for reassembly and time it. Fuel quantity servo pin MUST be engaged properly with fuel control collar or engine will not run. There have been recent threads detailing this, do a search. With pump top central on it's slots with bolts barely nipped crank engine. Tap pump top forwards or back until engine fires then tap further until it runs. Let engine warm then tap pump top back and forth to get 750 RPM. Tighten bolts fully. Engine will run quite happily without the manifold, just make sure nothing gets sucked in. If EKA has gone in and key works locks with no "Engine disabled" message, engine should crank, however it still won't start if ECM is out of sync with BECM. Check starter relay 16 and fuse 40.
Freediscoranger
Active Member
when your saying the top half do you mean the black box attached to the side of the top half of the pump?
I mean ALL of the top half of the pump complete with electrics.
Freediscoranger
Active Member
when trying to take the top off the pump there are what appear to be 6 star drive bolts which would appear to hold the whole thing together.. and 1 security bolt that has 3 sides. getting abit stumped now as we dont have a tool for that. am i doing something wrong?
Freediscoranger
Active Member
plus its cranking now just not firing so one step closer. sorry if some of the informations seems obvious to you guys but im just being a messenger between the two since im at uni and speaking on the phone to the workshop.
If you don't have the triangle socket tap a suitably sized twelve point socket onto it. Carefully undo it leaving socket in place for reassembly.
