Dan_J

Dan_J

Member
Hi,

2.25 petrol series 3 1980

So after diagnosing a weak spark I managed to get the car going by giving a direct feed to the coil from the battery. Still no ideas what is causing the weak spark.

However, took the old girl out for a spin and 100m from home she died and now can’t get her started again - even when giving a direct feed from battery to coil.

Anyone help? I’m struggling for ideas.

Dan
 
wireman said:
How are your plug leads? Points condition and gap? Quality parts or blue box?
Click to expand...

Parts were bought from my local motor factors. Probably cheaper end of the scale. I should mention however it had been running fine on those parts for a couple weeks before failing to start.

Thanks for you replies chaps.
 
Are you getting a spark at the plugs now after it cut out and won't start?..a ballast resistor is a white box before coil if fitted has a different coil than one wired direct to battery
 
Is your rotor arm in good nick? Check the brass arm is fixed solid. Is the rotor arm seated correctly on the spindle? Next check your dizzy cap, is the central carbon rod intact? Does it lovely and down freely, does it make good contact with the rotor arm? Are the other contacts on the cap clean? Is your coil very hot after a run? If so it's had it.
 
Shippers said:
Are you getting a spark at the plugs now after it cut out and won't start?..a ballast resistor is a white box before coil if fitted has a different coil than one wired direct to battery
Click to expand...

The spark is really inconsistent. Its almost as if the spark is only good enough right at the end of the engine cranking over - just as i stop turning the key.

And no ballast that i can see.
 
wireman said:
Is your rotor arm in good nick? Check the brass arm is fixed solid. Is the rotor arm seated correctly on the spindle? Next check your dizzy cap, is the central carbon rod intact? Does it lovely and down freely, does it make good contact with the rotor arm? Are the other contacts on the cap clean? Is your coil very hot after a run? If so it's had it.
Click to expand...

hey,

new cap and rotor arm. both in good condition. I can get it to run long enough to check the coil temp but i am having the same problem on two separate coils.

thanks again for replies
 
Dan_J said:
The spark is really inconsistent. Its almost as if the spark is only good enough right at the end of the engine cranking over - just as i stop turning the key.

And no ballast that i can see.
Click to expand...

Sounds like starter is taking to much juice from battery...do you have a wire from starter solenoid to coil as I have on my 101...it gives extra juice to coil from battery only when cranking...with ignition on due you get a decent spark when you open points manualy
 
Points and condensor are a service item really, if you havent changed them then it's probably time you did. A quick clean up of the points with a bit of fine wet and dry may get you going again. Similar with the coil, for what they cost its worth fitting a new one for piece of mind as when they go wrong they often give intermittent problems
 
So new points, condenser, rotor arm, distributor cap and ignition coil hasn’t solved the problem.

I was getting a good spark when I gave the coil a direct feed from the battery and opening the points manually.

A new electronic distributor from Simon bbc hasn’t seemed to have solved it either.

Giving the coil a direct feed from battery with the electronic distributor I get a couple of chokes and pops but nothing anywhere near starting.

So I reckon the timing is out. I’ve played with it so much I’ve probably adjusted it completely wrong.
 
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