Did you ever solve the 'going dark'?Fuel pump is working. It starts to turn then dies.
Not just a “click” - like it’s turned half way and then hits resistance and stops - and all the electrics go dark
Nope. I ran out of ideas and took it to the garage. Starts fine when cold and every now and then but not consistently. Garage has no idea either!!Did you ever solve the 'going dark'?
It's hard with so much of the loom hidden away
Did we rule out a dodgy ignition switch? If that's falling apart inside then everything would go dark
thanks @sierrafery and I think I might have a crack at the engine harness as a last resort when/if it comes back from the garage. The fascia harness is a bit beyond me so that really will signal the end!I feel sorry for you.
This kind of intermittent electrical issues are the worst nightmare and unfortunately there is no cheap way around it unless you have skills with electrical troubleshooting at a proffesinal level and know exactly how the D2 works. I'm not gonna read the whole thread again but iirc both fuseboxes were ruled out and if the earths were also checked there are only two steps left:
1. replace the engine harness cos that's quite easy and very suspect
... if still the same
2. replace the main fascia harness... that's a hard one
cos seems that the interruption or short circuit is somewhere in one of these
thanks @sierrafery and I think I might have a crack at the engine harness as a last resort when/if it comes back from the garage. The fascia harness is a bit beyond me so that really will signal the end!
In post #1 he said the batt was only about a year old.Cheers for mentioning the video, i missed that!
The battery is goosed,
The nanocom doesn't update very quick but i saw 9v.. in reality it probably dropped much lower. Low enough for the ecu to die and the solenoid to disengage.
With ignition on, turn everything on for 5 mins.. headlights, heated screen, heater blower, radio etc.. Keep an eye on the voltage. You'll need to fully charge the battery afterwards
If it's not the battery then you're either got a bad connection to the battery or the starter motor, or the starter itself is shorting out and taking too much power
Dodgy ignition switch wont drop the measured voltage down to 9v though.. at least not without releasing it's magic smokeGuys, IMO the best troubleshooting method for this issue was already revealed here https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/won’t-bloody-start.389329/page-3#post-5624239 ... from what i understood only the engine bay fusebox was ruled out untill now, so it seems that the ignition switch remains suspect so does the interior fusebox... untill these are not ruled out 100% all other discussions are futile ...believe me or not
It was a video in this thread where the whole dash went black and all the electrics seemed to be out for good after a cranking attempt which failled as well so i doubt that there was 9V present then cos at 9V the starter would still spin well just that the engine would not start without any other symptomDodgy ignition switch wont drop the measured voltage down to 9v though.. at least not without releasing it's magic smoke
According to the mechanic the connector from the ignition itself - apparently it looked like it had been “played with” in the past (wasn’t me!).What bit was dirty ?
Hmmm!According to the mechanic the connector from the ignition itself - apparently it looked like it had been “played with” in the past (wasn’t me!).
I’ll be honest I didn’t dig into it any more than that as I was just happy to get it working and not get charged a lot for it, and he was swamped with work - next time I go in I’ll ask in more detail