MacStu
Member
The series 3 definitely looks about the same amount of engagement as ours are now
MacStu
Member
Yeah caps instantly remove the look of uncertainty!
MacStu
Member
I checked the length of ours and they are 45mm, I think that the older defender hubs were thicker than the later ones which accounts for the 2 lengths 40/45 ideally we need about 4.5mm more, the 60mm would be OK but then people start mentioning there is too much thread poking out! for me I'm just waiting for some good technical data to confirm the 45mm studs with the higher torque is approved by landrover but I dont think thats going to happenThere are three lengths of stud.
40(39), 45 and 60(56)mm.
I think the OP has the (40)39mm ones as they have a plain end ... ?
If so part number FRC6137 will get you closer.
Wheel Stud - Front & Rear Hubs | Defender To 1993
FRC6137 - Britpart, Allmakes and Land Rover options for FRC6137 Wheel Stud - Front & Rear Hubs | Defender To 1993 - EXPRESS Shipping - UK, EU and Worldwide.www.lrdirect.com
julianf
Well-Known Member
I'm casually looking for a set, and I'm relaxed enough on time scales that I may as well get genuine.
What are the indicators as to "authenticity" when I'm browsing face book market place in the middle of the night?
I'm in no rush and am happy to chuck some sand / not sand in my clemco, so figured I'd look for a ropey (cheap) set and refinish them myself but have not found the "silver bullet" to ID them from a distance.
dag019
Well-Known Member
One thing I found with the sets I have bought is people who advertise them as “HD” or “130” rims tend to be asking half the price of people who advertise them as “wolf” or “military” despite the fact they are the same thing. And they were fitted as standard to 130 vehicles and a lot of the special vehicle 110 utility vehicles. The big thing I found is sellers don’t know the difference between tubed and tubeless and don’t know how to tell by looking externally. So that is something else you need to aware of and you can then ask for the specific photos or look closely at the advertised photos to know what it is you are looking at.
Originals have the part numbers and size stamped on them, although that is difficult to see.
ANR5592 (for tubed tyres) and ANR4583 (for tubeless) and the size 16x6.5".
The 'obvious thing' is the position of the holes.
Colour is irrelevant as they could have been repainted but black wasn't a standard colour and is typically the first give-away.
Real ones ...
NOT real ones ...
Most seller do say they are 'Wolf Style' wheels to be fair.
Interesting article ..
Wolf wheels - Land Rover Expedition
I've just bought a spare Wolf wheel, so called because of their usage on the Army 'Wolf' Land Rovers. They are technically Land Rover's Heavy Duty (XD) OEM steel wheel, fitted to Defender 130's and as an option on other Defenders. I regard them as an important addition to an expedition Land...
www.landroverexpedition.com
julianf
Well-Known Member
I'm not the most observant (my partner does the quality control on my work as I just don't see things) but, to me, I can't see what you're seeing between the two photos.
Can you point out "wheres wally" to me?
dag019
Well-Known Member
The ridge for the "dome" centre is much harsher and more pronounced on the aftermarket ones and almost look like it is stuck on rather than being part of the wheel.
You can tell tubed vs tubless even with tyres fitted because where the bead ridge is on inside edge on tubless there is an indent on the inside of the rim. If it doesn't have this they are tube type.
julianf
Well-Known Member
As an example, these on eBay -
The gap between the holes and the ridge is there and I can't see a significant ridge around the bead.
Would these be original and tubeless?
(I'm not buying them - I'm just using them as an example)
The gap between the holes and the ridge is there and I can't see a significant ridge around the bead.
Would these be original and tubeless?
(I'm not buying them - I'm just using them as an example)
