v8250
Well-Known Member
Not repaired a bonnet but have refurbished mine. Take a close look as to how the bonnet is assembled, where the spot welds are and how the wheel support plate is fitted. Military bonnet plates are mostly welded, others are riveted in place. The additional reinforcement stays are spot welded to the standard civilian stays. New bonnet support plate kits are readily available.
If your bonnet is totally shot it may be more efficient to buy a properly good second hand bonnet and rebuild from there...it depends how bad the condition of your existing bonnet. Why not post some pics...
If your bonnet is totally shot it may be more efficient to buy a properly good second hand bonnet and rebuild from there...it depends how bad the condition of your existing bonnet. Why not post some pics...
I'll take some more pics when the sun comes up.
The bonnet-length support stays are riveted and held in place by some kind of mastic, most of which has rotted out, so I can get a hacksaw blade behind the stays and cut it away. The extra military strengtheners are bolted in place. It might be a fiddly job, but it looks doable, Here's a pic of the centre plate that is badly rusted through. Replacement plates are £30, so I can drill out the spot welds, but how do I reassemble? Rivet it?
The steel around the leading edge of the bonnet is badly rusted, but not blown through and is salvageable.
The bonnet-length support stays are riveted and held in place by some kind of mastic, most of which has rotted out, so I can get a hacksaw blade behind the stays and cut it away. The extra military strengtheners are bolted in place. It might be a fiddly job, but it looks doable, Here's a pic of the centre plate that is badly rusted through. Replacement plates are £30, so I can drill out the spot welds, but how do I reassemble? Rivet it?
The steel around the leading edge of the bonnet is badly rusted, but not blown through and is salvageable.
Attachments
v8250
Well-Known Member
There's not much wrong with the bonnet except for surface rust. The centre support plate can be removed and the new riveted in, many are. Be careful when removing the adjuster bolts and latch set, you'll need to soak for a couple of days with PlusGas, then ease off. The rest of the bonnet looks like surface rust - this + paint can be buzzed back, cleaned off with degreaser, zinc primed and painted. It should come up like new.
I got that plate off eventually and the right hand support brace is blown through is two places, but I think it is salvageable.
I drilled the spot welds and finished it off with a cutting wheel on a Dremel. A little straightening needed, but nothing serious.
Fixings now soaking in paraffin for three days, then drill out the rivets and take it all for blasting.
Most of the sealant behind it had fallen away and the rest I can cut through with a hacksaw blade.
I drilled the spot welds and finished it off with a cutting wheel on a Dremel. A little straightening needed, but nothing serious.
Fixings now soaking in paraffin for three days, then drill out the rivets and take it all for blasting.
Most of the sealant behind it had fallen away and the rest I can cut through with a hacksaw blade.
Attachments
Rougharse Racing
Well-Known Member
How much work would be involved in removing the bonnet skin? You could then get to the rear of the frame to rust proof it, particularly around any repairs.
Your framework does not seem to be in too bad a condition overall.
Your framework does not seem to be in too bad a condition overall.
That is exactly what I'm doing. The RH brace is blown through in two places, but repairable and I've just started taking the whole thing apart.
The oil cooler and rad frame will be next.
Bulkhead replacement is in October, but still trying to sort this lack of passing light and for.
