G

Gooders200

Member
Good morning all. Recently posted about wishbones being replaced on my TD4. Thanks for all advice. Just gathering info on doing the job. Wanted to ask about releasing the taper on the ball joint. I can see that the nut securing the joint will not come all the way off as it fouls the gaitor and part of the the suspension. Looked on YouTube and seems that once the nut is released you still do not have space for a splitter to fit in. The mechanic then hammered the casing which then released the taper. I was going to pre soak all the joints with release spray anyway but is the hammering of the casing the preferred method to loosen the taper from its seating? , bearing in mind a ball joint splitter does not appear to be an option. TIA.
 
Sometimes tapping the hub near the joint frees it. I use a fork type splitter that you insert and hit with a club hammer.

It damages the rubber boot but if the arm is scrap that doesn't matter.
Loosen the nut as far as you can, break the joint then remove the nut.
Don't forget to fit the nut a few turns when the joint goes back in before getting the new taper stuck into the hub or you won't get the nut on!
 
brilliant. Thanks for the advice

It damages the rubber boot but if the arm is scrap that doesn't matter.
Loosen the nut as far as you can, break the joint then remove the nut.
Don't forget to fit the nut a few turns when the joint goes back in before getting the new taper stuck into the hub or you won't get the nut on![/QUOTE]
 
Where abouts in Devon are you?
Just started a Freelander 1 spares and servicing business near South Molton.
See spares for sale section on Landyzone.
 
After repairing cars since I was 16 years old, now 73 years old, my FL1 badly needed new lower arms and anti roll bar links. It also needed a MOT.. I arranged the Garage to fit the new arms and links also included the rubber bushes but were not need as the ones on the car were good enough for the MOT.. The lower arms were so rusty one amazed the tester how it held together.. Never charged much either for the MOT and work.. The first time in my 73 years I had to have a Garage do work for me.. sad but true.. BUT from previous experience TWO big hammers hitting opposing sides of the taper at once works wonders, yes not a lot of room, but when needs must, I also have used a long steel bar putting pressure on the uncoupling of the taper placing bar between surfaces and standing on the end of the bar then bashing away at the taper helps stubborn fits....
 
Ian burritt said:
After repairing cars since I was 16 years old, now 73 years old, my FL1 badly needed new lower arms and anti roll bar links. It also needed a MOT.. I arranged the Garage to fit the new arms and links also included the rubber bushes but were not need as the ones on the car were good enough for the MOT.. The lower arms were so rusty one amazed the tester how it held together.. Never charged much either for the MOT and work.. The first time in my 73 years I had to have a Garage do work for me.. sad but true.. BUT from previous experience TWO big hammers hitting opposing sides of the taper at once works wonders, yes not a lot of room, but when needs must, I also have used a long steel bar putting pressure on the uncoupling of the taper placing bar between surfaces and standing on the end of the bar then bashing away at the taper helps stubborn fits....
Click to expand...
That’s great. Thanks for the info. Really appreciate it.
 
Just done a pair. Took 1 hr per side. If all the bolts come out that is!!
Don't forget some copper slip on the pin that goes through the rear Bush. You'll thank yourself when you need to do it again!!
 
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