J

JIMBO83

New Member
Ok, I know this has probably asked a lot previously, but I couldn't find any results on the search so here goes;

I've got a series 3 landy, a P reg.
And it's got what looks like a primative radio/CB capabilities-some owner has obviously DIY'd one in.
As there's 3 wires, the +ve is running from a 10 amp fuse box, the -ve is grounded. I dunno what the other is. There is definitely 12v running between them, as I've used my multimeter.
Now I have an old JVC head unit, KDMX2900R, that i wanted to wire in. It's obviously got the ISO/BUS (?) connectors, you know the connectors that would easily connect a new car's AV electronics to the head unit. But what with the landy being old and DIY it doesn't, it just has these 3 wires.
So i thought that I would just be able to wire the +ve on the head unit to the +ve wire. the ground to the ground etc, and connect the speaker cables, but nothings happening. So I'm guessing I may need to wire some of the other cables in? maybe the remote? there's also the illumination wire, and memory wire, but I wouldn't have thought I'd need to connect these to get it going, I'm not too fussed about losing settings and the display not lighting up, as I'm only using it for my Ipod, using the input leads.
I'm guessing the other wire that i;ve ommitted is the ignition live? Do I need to wire this in, or is the permanet live and ground enough?
Anyone got any ideas?
Is it actually possible, without going out and buying a super s**tty headunit, that had old school wiring?
Thanks.
 
here are the colours so you can wire up the new one to the factory
wires...


live 12+ yellow
ign 12+ red
earth black
Remote blue


white /white black left front -
white left front +

green / green black left rear -
green rear +

Purple / Purple black right rear -
purple rear +

Grey / grey black right front-
grey front+


to double check the disco wiring get or make a small test light orborrow a meter..

connect one side to ground. IE the cig lighter. and probe the wires one by one till you find a live wire.. that wire will be the live wire for the memory. now do the same with the ignition on and check again.... and so on etc

to find the speakers get a small "AAA" batery and do the following.


you need 8 wires ie 4 pairs of speakers to pair up from in the dash.

normally the colours are simerler. so start there.

get hold of 1 wire and put it to the + side of the AAA battery.

chose another wire and gently tap onto the - side of the AAA battery

when you hear a low pop or crackle that is a correct pair. tape up and mark as RR/RL / FR / FL etc

to check the pollarity , if the speaker moves out when you apply a volt into it then the +- are the correct way round . if it goes in then -+ need swapping..

i hope this is of some use to you.

regards
mick
 
JIMBO83 said:
Ok, I know this has probably asked a lot previously, but I couldn't find any results on the search so here goes;

I've got a series 3 landy, a P reg.
And it's got what looks like a primative radio/CB capabilities-some owner has obviously DIY'd one in.
As there's 3 wires, the +ve is running from a 10 amp fuse box, the -ve is grounded. I dunno what the other is. There is definitely 12v running between them, as I've used my multimeter.
Now I have an old JVC head unit, KDMX2900R, that i wanted to wire in. It's obviously got the ISO/BUS (?) connectors, you know the connectors that would easily connect a new car's AV electronics to the head unit. But what with the landy being old and DIY it doesn't, it just has these 3 wires.
So i thought that I would just be able to wire the +ve on the head unit to the +ve wire. the ground to the ground etc, and connect the speaker cables, but nothings happening. So I'm guessing I may need to wire some of the other cables in? maybe the remote? there's also the illumination wire, and memory wire, but I wouldn't have thought I'd need to connect these to get it going, I'm not too fussed about losing settings and the display not lighting up, as I'm only using it for my Ipod, using the input leads.
I'm guessing the other wire that i;ve ommitted is the ignition live? Do I need to wire this in, or is the permanet live and ground enough?
Anyone got any ideas?
Is it actually possible, without going out and buying a super s**tty headunit, that had old school wiring?
Thanks.
Click to expand...


youll need the ignition live connected as well ,all the permanant live does is supply power to the units memory ,so you dont lose the preset stations youve stored ,the ignition live also switches the unit off when you remove the key from the ignition to prevent you returning to a deed battery ,you can run it with the ignition live and permanant live from the unit joined together to one permanant live ,but the unit wont switch off when you turn off the ignition

hope thats some help :D
 
Hi thanks for the help, if i didnt make it clear, it's a Series 3, so there are no factory wiring in it for a headunit!
I think i was oretty much there then, I have a multimeter that i;ve been using for the wiring to test the Voltage and polarity.
So basicly, I connect the permanent +ve to the memory on the head unit, the ignition +ve to the power in, and the -ve to ground on the head unit and it should work?
 
that shud do it ,permanant live is usually back to the battery but you should have a permant live at the starter switch as well as a switched one for circuits that are only live with the ignition on (my series 3 all the lights go off when you turn the ignition right off) not sure wether theyre all wired that way tho ,the electrical goblins have been at mine in the past ,best way would be check it out with your meter ,just make sure youve got a fuse inline with both supplys somewhere ,safety furst an all that (hope its a loud radio tho ,itll need to be in a series )lol
 
fitted a new cd player into mine last week totally from scratch i got the head unit and also brought an adapter from halfords to convert the head unit plug to an unwired vehicle and just went from there wireing it from instructions pretty much the same as micko gave.
u will need a good set of speakers that go nice n loud and just out of curiosity where u fittin the speakers i fitted mine behing the rear bulkhead mounted in a plastci box vcut in hald and bolted to the bulkhead with holes cut in the top and a peice of flexi transparent plastic over the top ofr a lil bit of extra protection, if you are makeing ur own boxes make sure that they arnet compleaty sealed have a small hole in the bottom or side big enought for ur finger to fit in
 
Hey guys thanks for the help-looks like I was almost there! As i said, it looks like a headunit has been in before-yeah there's a 10amp fuse from the permanent live, and i'm guessing the ignition live is coming through the main fuse box maybe?
there are some 6x9's already in boxes just behind the driver and passenger seat. so we'll see what they're like! I know it's gonna have to be loud!
But as you said, I may put some smaller components on the bulkhead, or in the footwell-we'll see if i can be arsed!
 
woah, hang on, mick has got em the wrong way around. red is permanant live and yellow is ignition live
 
it's ok-I figured them out a while ago-with my trusty multimeter- and on mine it's white blue and black...

Ok, it seems to be working ok-well i haven't completely checked-but it ejects cds etc now.
next question-I wasn't too bothered about having any illumination-(display) but i think it may be a bit helpful, instead of just a blank screen-so how can i get that to work-can i just splice the ignition +ve? and run that into the illumination wire or does it work differently?
 
if you just want the lights on all the time then yup that shud work ,but if you want tto be real posh and have it light up at night only ,then find the wire from the back of your light switch that becomes live when you switch your side lights on ,,,,,,,,according to my book of truths :D should be red and black from terminal 1 of the light switch (again check with your meter that it becomes live only when ignition is on and your lights are switched on ) just to be sure
 
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