mistericeman
Active Member
Remove the lower dash corner and get to the tin cover (Held on with 3 screws from memory) then poke all the semi solid grease out of the gear box and wipe out as much as you can with solvent .
Then try the motor again ....the grease tends to solidify and make things hard work .
Failing that its time to look at the electrics side of things like the brushes and commutator/parking switch .
Then try the motor again ....the grease tends to solidify and make things hard work .
Failing that its time to look at the electrics side of things like the brushes and commutator/parking switch .
mistericeman
Active Member
could still be solidified grease as it warms up and thins once the motor starts ....mind not a biggie to strip and clean the whole thing electrically as well OR swap it for another ...just make sure you get a 2 speed IF yours is a two speed ...
They were from memory used in heaps of other BL stuff too and just different "Rack" lenths and/or wheel boxes used to suit
They were from memory used in heaps of other BL stuff too and just different "Rack" lenths and/or wheel boxes used to suit
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
It is a two speed motor but when I got it the switch was only a single speed so thats how it stayed. I have however wired it through a push switch and relay recently. I'll give it a good clean tomorrow and try again hopefully thats all it needs.
Its actually wired through two relays so the park works. Made my brain cell ache to work it out.
Its actually wired through two relays so the park works. Made my brain cell ache to work it out.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
Sussed it. I did take it out for a clean and re lube. Even removed the grass from inside no I dont know either.
It worked out the problem was with the motors position. As it only fixes to the bulkhead with a rubber covered strap, there is shall we say potential for movement. I had removed the motor to soundproof behind it and when it went back it was a fraction of an inch out. This in turn shifted the spiral rod to the wipers and the wipers themselves had begun fowling on the windscreen frame. This in turn allowed the park switch to engage but not to disengage so the motor stayed in permanent park.
no I dont know either.It worked out the problem was with the motors position. As it only fixes to the bulkhead with a rubber covered strap, there is shall we say potential for movement. I had removed the motor to soundproof behind it and when it went back it was a fraction of an inch out. This in turn shifted the spiral rod to the wipers and the wipers themselves had begun fowling on the windscreen frame. This in turn allowed the park switch to engage but not to disengage so the motor stayed in permanent park.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
It is a 2 but its had a 3 bulkhead butchered into it at some point
I found the problem and am waiting for a new set of brushes for the motor. Not that there was anything wrong with the old ones. You see I decided to open the motor up and give the brush springs a little stretch and a general clean up inside. Looked ok so I gently slid the cover back on then jammed it down so its retaining screws would reach. This is a bad idea as the commutator smashes the brushes into little pieces that short all the internal workings. This does not go well when electrickery is applied as it burns out all your wiring you just replaced after the last fire. Luckily I am blessed with riches beyond my wildest dreams and incredibly large genitalia so little things like being a complete cock tend to pale into insignificance.
The good news is my glow plugs have arrived and I'm just going outside to nail them on.
ObiWanKenobi
Active Member
Hey guys - thanks for all the comments. I'm having similar problem with my two speed wiper motor for the Series 2A. So I'll try all of the above (except that last part about breaking it). I cleaned the contacts last night and confirm power is going from the dashboard switch to the jack which plugs into the park-switch. So no choice but to remove motor and have a look. I note that it did work in the summer, and now it's winter here and temps at 50 F (10C) or below to freezing most days recently. So that might affect the grease I'm thinking. I have a question about the dashboard switch. It's a rubber coated rod which clicks up, middle, and down, and you can also push it. Looks like it is missing a handle or knob, because like I said, seems like someone just dipped the switch in liquid rubber coating. It works, but can anyone tell me what the correct original switch for a Series 2A will be to have two speed motor as well as have a push to activate the washer? Thanks! I tried searching for it, but having difficulty seeing an authentic picture of a dashboard in a Series 2A where I can read the little tag or knob.
https://alexatesting.blogspot.com/2018/12/dash-with-funky-wiper-switch.html
Thanks!
Mike
https://alexatesting.blogspot.com/2018/12/dash-with-funky-wiper-switch.html
Thanks!
Mike
A couple of things to watch for, 1 the brushes are very fiddly to hold in place while the armature is reassembled, there must be a special tool. I think I used some string then pulled it out. 2 the self park switch is very sensitive and can work itself a bit loose then they just run and run. 3 the wiper is always live, its stops because of the self park, the wiper switch just by-passes the self park. The self park switch grounds the armature to earth to stop it quickly, if this is not connected it will slow but not stop in time, if its connected wrong you get an almighty short.
