Jerseyp38

Active Member
Hi,

Well since the rear diff has been diagnosed as a problem, also a track rod end but also the windscreen is badly cracked as per the picture but it also runs right across the bottom of the screen. there is also a milky colour to the bottom edge. It has been suggested that there is moisture ingress and there will be corrosion once the wind screen is removed.

The wind screen fitter suggested leaving it until I am stopped or said his Dad would buy the car from me to use as a beach tow car.

Any thoughts on what actually might lurk behind the screen edge and is it likely to be fixable?

Thank you for any thoughts or suggestions.
 

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The body panels are aluminium so if what is under there is also so it would have escaped corrosion.. there could be hope!
 
I'm not exactly sure what your after but here's my ten pence worth

Rear diff £50 and a couple of hours to swop it out, track rod a tenner. Windscreen get it changed if you have cover on your policy all full com ones have windscreen cover if not get a second hand one fitted
 
I'm not exactly sure what your after but here's my ten pence worth

Rear diff £50 and a couple of hours to swop it out, track rod a tenner. Windscreen get it changed if you have cover on your policy all full com ones have windscreen cover if not get a second hand one fitted

What he said but rear diff more like £100.
 
The diff and track rod are straight spannering jobs so your cost will depend on the parts you buy and how much of the work you do yourself,
The milkiness in the screen is water causing the inner plastic layer to lift away from the glass. It's not unusual for this to start at the edge of an otherwise good screen and, in your case, be encouraged by the crack.
Take the bottom trim off (see recent posts about replacing the plenum foam) and have a good look. You might just find several years worth of accumulated mud at the bottom of the screen holding the moisture that's causing this.
 
The diff and track rod are straight spannering jobs so your cost will depend on the parts you buy and how much of the work you do yourself,
The milkiness in the screen is water causing the inner plastic layer to lift away from the glass. It's not unusual for this to start at the edge of an otherwise good screen and, in your case, be encouraged by the crack.
Take the bottom trim off (see recent posts about replacing the plenum foam) and have a good look. You might just find several years worth of accumulated mud at the bottom of the screen holding the moisture that's causing this.
+1 to the above, screens often go milky where there is a crack.
I thought the body was steel, just some alloy panels?
 
The screen is not touching the bodywork there is sealer and spacer blocks shouldn't be any more corrosion than the rest of the outside bodywork, sounds like he want a cheep motor.
 
Is the roof ali ?

I always thought they were steel ... maybe ... :eek:

I could believe the roof being steel so it was stronger in case of a rollover but most of the body panels are Al; that was why it was the first Land Rover that didn't rust :p
 
The screen is just delamin were water or moisture gets between the glass and the interlay between the two pieces of glass . Myself nothing to worry about
 
Thank you for all the advice it was just what needed to give me the confidence to carry on with it! Will get a diff on order and gehup the windscreen guy. then get a service done as well. Still would rather keep it than move it on!
 
I could believe the roof being steel so it was stronger in case of a rollover but most of the body panels are Al; that was why it was the first Land Rover that didn't rust :p
As far as I know, all the P38 structural parts are steel, it's just panels that are alloy, and they don't rust, instead they corrode:rolleyes:
 
I could believe the roof being steel so it was stronger in case of a rollover but most of the body panels are Al; that was why it was the first Land Rover that didn't rust :p

I think the roof is steel because it forms part of the welded bodyshell, whereas on the RR Classic the roof was a separate alloy panel that was bolted to the shell.

I don't think the alloy panels has anything to do with it rusting less than other Land Rovers - I think it actually has fewer alloy panels than previous Land Rovers (certainly fewer than the Classic). All the areas of Land Rovers that rust are still made of steel on the P38.
 
I remember playing around with a magnet a few years ago to investigate this, would make sense for the structure to be steel but then the visible parts Al, not sure which manual to find out all the materials. Part of the buyers guides floating around is that the one place that rusts is under the lower tailgate.
 
I remember playing around with a magnet a few years ago to investigate this, would make sense for the structure to be steel but then the visible parts Al, not sure which manual to find out all the materials. Part of the buyers guides floating around is that the one place that rusts is under the lower tailgate.
Lower tailgate is an alloy skin on a steel frame, it suffers badly from electrolytic corrosion. Upper tailgate is all steel.
 
I remember playing around with a magnet a few years ago to investigate this, would make sense for the structure to be steel but then the visible parts Al, not sure which manual to find out all the materials. Part of the buyers guides floating around is that the one place that rusts is under the lower tailgate.

Now you've intrigued me and I might have to get a magnet out myself ...
 
The milkyness will only be a problem when it interferes with the drivers view of the road ...

Until then it'll be fine, just do the spannering and enjoy the vehicle .... :)
 

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