I've succeeded in halting all outgoing leaks: clutch, radiator, steering box, rear axle pinion, transfer box and now turn to incoming.

For some time there has been water in the footwell and I suspect the shot windscreen seal which, at 29 years old, owes me nothing.

I have decided to have a try, as opposed to a crack, at replacing the screen at the same time as that too has seen better days.

If anyone with recent experience can advise me of not only how you do it but also suggest where to source the parts; I will be most grateful.

My second query is the hollow section at the top of the bulkhead. I have studied component diagrams and can't make out its extent and to where it leads. Feeling under the flaps at both sides of the engine bay, the surface is definitely crusty rusty and I would like to get on top of that. Will I have to remove the dash?

Normally with chassis box sections I spray Waxoil/used oil from a bike pump through a flexible connector which produces a fine mist and effective internal covering but am reluctant to do so here as I don't know where it goes.

Anyway, I thank you for your attention and any advice you may offer.

Graham

Hi Graham

I have just replace my Defender windscreen seal. I got some advice from a mate that is a professional windscreen fitter first. Basically I just cut away the old seal from the outside and then needed to do the same from inside and the glass came out easily enough. I then cleaned the the channel and prepped for the new seal. HE recommended that I heat the seal by putting it in my other cars foot well with the heater on for 10 minutes. He said that he had fitted loads of defenders and said they only really break at the bottom right corner so I should finish there when I pull the cord round. It actually went pretty smoothly. He came round later to have looka nd texted me to tell me to coat Vaseline around the rubber door seals and the windscreen seal(??).

Next up the behind the bulkhead. Ive just taken off the dash to remove the fascia and this has revealed a bit of corrosion around the back of the vents. Ive just vacuumed all the dust and rusty bits away and treated with the a rust inhibitor and sealed around the vents with tiger seal. Bulkheads not too bad at all but I will replace when I do the chassis in a few years time.

Last up I welded an extension to the gutter under the vents. I've always thought that the footwells rot because the water is attacking from top and bottom so I though I would try this. I also replace the gutter with a new one and used the old one to extend it.I used tiger seal along the join with the wing and bulkhead.

Not sure if this helps mate.

Stumpy

Thanks Stumpy, that is a massive help and gives me confidence to have a go as well as a good view as to what I'm supposed to be doing.
Like you, I think much of the problem stems from the inadequate gutter. What I've done is cut lengths of old door seal, I've replaced these with new, and slotted then onto the down turned edge of the bonnet forward from the bulkhead almost to its end. I have used some leftovers on the underside edge of the wings, again forward from the bulkhead.This still left a gap and so I cut short a short length of old vent seal for both ends and it fits a treat. Very Heath Robinson but it has reduced ingress to a dribble. It also doesn't look too bad and gives a straight appearance for the wings are slightly wavy due to some big lads doing a clog dance on them.
Once again Stumpy, thank you for your valuable advice and I shall look out for your posts in the future.
Best wishes,
Graham

Stumpy, I forgot to congratulate you on your first rate fabrication and welding.
I wish I could do that!

Mrs Doris and me replaced the windscreen and seal and it was pretty straight forward - It did take a while to understand which way the seal went in. My footwell still leaks which could be two things; the windscreen to bulkhead seal is likely hardened and could be the culprit and the door seal, if not properly fitted i.e. warmed and malleable (and some mastic applied) and malleted home it can leak.

Thanks Doriz,
I've fitted new door and vent seals and will look at the windscreen to bulkhead one after the new windscreen.
Your advice has been not only welcome but inspirational; I'm just about to try and persuade Mrs Graham to give me a hand!
I may/may not be back with her answer.........

Is this bulkhead void that you mention present on the TD5.
I am sure it is, but how would l access it with the rust proofing spray.
I don’t understand what you mean by “feeling under the flaps at both sides of the engine bay”
Do you mean the vent flaps? There’s no way to “feel under” these on my TD5.

I had the same issues with water ingress into the footwells. The fact that Landrover produced a workshop manual to reduce or repair leak is quite appropriate https://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/Manuals/Land_Rover_Defender_Water_Ingress_Manual.pdf credit to western at landroverweb.
After I replaced the door seals, windscreen seals and the vent seals I then took the advice from the manual and bought some DUM DUM. I then ran that the length of the bulkhead just under the windscreen ontop of the existing seal that had become hard. I was able to push the DUM DUM into the gap and this has made a really water tight seal. This has "cured" the water ingress for now. It comes in different colours, black, white and light grey. I have also used it around the door tops as recommended in the manual.
Hope this helps. I've documented my own restoration on Instagram @landierestoration which shows my journey. Don't worry I'm not a blogger or whatever I'm a 52 year old bloke whos rebuilt his defender with his daughter!
Stumpyj

Great document, can this be added to the lz knowledge library @blue beasty

Thanks for your message Lightning,
I doubt that that the td5 is much different from my 200 Tdi except of course being newer and more desirable and I suspect yours is rust free!
Perhaps the void is a product of my misunderstanding of component diagrams of the defender bulkhead which seems to be made up of two major parts and it was my assumption that there was a space / cavity between them.
If it does not exist I shall be relieved as my task becomes simpler.
The void idea was fed by the structure at the back of the engine bay on both sides where there is a forward surface whose shape Angles upwards towards the wings. This is w hat I meant by flap.
When I feel behind this I find there is another surface set back on the same plane and I was wondering whether this continued the width of the vehicle.
It feels definitely rusty in these two spaces and if that is all I have to worry about, I'll be quite chuffed.
Whenever I come across rust I try to get rid of it and though not the prettiest Landy, it is pretty sound.
The fact is I'm learning from all of you and am grateful for your time, expertise and community.
Best wishes,
Graham

Stumpy,
That's a great help! Thank you.
With your help I may now be able to have the second dry Defender in the Kingdom!
I'm also looking forward to studying your rebuild account.
I am a slightly older bloke trying to keep my Defender going with the help of my grand daughter.
Once again, I am most grateful for your help.
Best wishes,
Graham

doriz said:

Great document, can this be added to the lz knowledge library @blue beasty

Click to expand...

Tis already in Fender tech section