L

longpod

Member
Hi everyone

thought i`d ask 2 questions instead of wasting a seperate thread

here goes.

1) my drivers window has decided to start acting daft its stopping 3/4 on the way up.

i`ve took the interior panel off it free travel without hesitation to the bottom put on the way up it gets 3/4 the way then starts bouncing
couldn`t see anything blocking it has my window mech gone to pot.

2) been to get some turbodiesel engine oil so i can start to service my landy but came back without,
reason is the guy behind the counter asked my mileage which is 103k
i thought 10/40 would be ok as its only in 6 months.
he started mentioning probably every grade possible inc 15/40 5/30
semi synth, fully synth.

can someone just say it plainly is 10/40 ok even though my milage is over 100k heads still hurting from what he blurted out.

cheers
 
window regulator needs replacing more than likey unless motor fixing bolts are loose easy enough to about £20 for new one
 
jamesmartin said:
window regulator needs replacing more than likey unless motor fixing bolts are loose easy enough to about £20 for new one
Click to expand...

I agree. These are very easy to do, I've done both front ones now. Got the regulators from EBay for about £25 inc. p+p.

I did the first one when it snowed last year and everytime I went somewhere, the window slipped down (very cold for a few days). I had to get my dad to hold the window up so I didn't lose a finger, but replaced him with a screw driver jammed through the door the second time. As a result the job took half the time.

You will need a set of torx keys to get the motor off and on to the new regulator and some grease for it. And maybe some studs for your door card, if you are bothered with them, my door card is held on with some super strong double sided tape.
 
Last edited:
In my 98 300tdi Fender i just use 10 or 15 w40, whatever is cheapest (mineral oil) and just change it regularly, probably every 6 months or 4-5 ish thousand miles. I was told that is better than using fancy oils which can start "cleaning" the inside of your engine, which is somert you dont want when theres 100k worth of carbon deposits in there and it's running quite happily, ;););)
 
It won't go all the way up as one of the teeth on the regulator will most likely have snapped off. Had it happen on my '95 Tdi.
 
jamesmartin said:
window regulator needs replacing more than likey unless motor fixing bolts are loose easy enough to about £20 for new one
Click to expand...

Agreed,

A quick job to do (remember to tape up the window in the closed position), the job's a tad cramped if you've got big hands! I personally bought a door for a tenner from a Disco that was being scrapped, stripped it down and fitted into my Disco.
 
as grimmer said 10/40 or 15/40 nothing fancy. 100k nothing on these engines.mine as nearly 400k on it now and still going good
 
The window ratchet thingy has plastic teeth, they snap like a bastid.

How-to: Window Regulator / Window Motor Repair - Land Rover Forums - Land Rover Enthusiast Forum

Tools Needed
5/16” ratchet (1/4” drive) or similar
Philips head screwdriver (magnetic head is nice)
Torx bit attachment for ratchet (T-30)
Also helpful:
Painters tape (for holding up window)
Duct tape or similar for repairing torn plastic sheeting
Panel removal tool
Nitrile gloves (the door adhesive is kind-of goopy)
Patience

IMG_6669.jpg
 
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