jamesmartin said:
youve never waxoyled many vehicles then ,cos if you tried it its far better than warming in water
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only been doing it 25 year youth read my profile. if you had a clue you wouldnt be using thinners with it... :) if you want to get into a boring debate about it thats fine, you may learn something...:)
 
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jamesmartin said:
have you ever tried ?i have both
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yep - and I know what I, and a few related peeps much prefer - also, me mate thins his, he does his twice a year - and it needs it

I don't thin, and only really need to do it every 18 months to 24 months

let's not argue
 
must be unlucky ,as ive never seen any thing but better application/adhesion,either that or reallity varies in different parts of this country
 
I've used white spirit to thin it as I had concerns about thinners melting seam sealer and plastic.
finished result was fine
 
it would if you blasted pure thinners at it for a while ,but your not like painting it drys more or less on contact ,while hot or warmed waxoyl is dry by the time it reaches chassis ,ive do 50 or more a year including my own (though not yearly )
 
there are obviously ive not said its the only way ,just a method that i and others have found easier quicker .and gives good coverage and remains thin enough to get in all the nooks and crannys and produce a nice vapour to coat inside chassis ,im just relying to those that think it dont work,when ive found it works very well on the vehicles ive done over the years so will mention it on such threads as it may help some ,but anybody is welcome to choose from any method
 
yep it will go through the gun no problem , but if you ad thinners ,then the waxoil will dry out in the area you have coated. put it in warm water to thin it , so it will go through the gun, as it dries out , it will then form a thick wax....:)we have tryed lots of methods over the years at work , and the thinners method didnt work for us. we need long term protection, as we are restoring cars that are worth over 100 grand. granted we fill jobs with 10 tins of the stuff, we could thin it and use half that amount , but then thats only half the protection.:)
 
Thanks guys, I'll go with not diluting the Schutz and warming the Waxoyl.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Cheers
 
An update on progress so far: I have washed, scraped and wire brushed the crud and surface rust off the chassis and outriggers etc. along one side and painted it with smooth Hammerite. It's a dirty and messy job but at least I know how sound the Disco is - need to keep an eye on the rear ace pipes - OK at the moment but wouldn't want to have left them any longer without a bit of attention.

The underside is starting to look really clean now. I plan to do the other side when I next get a weekend to spare and the weather is on my side.
 
Hi folks, what we must all remember is that the waxoyl tin itself says you can add up to 10% white spirit if you require. It also states you should warm in hot water for 30 minutes. I have just purchased a waxoyl spray gun and pressure tin so i have all these delights to look forward to on one dirty weekend.
 
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I've got as far as cleaning and scraping the underside all over and have hammerited about three quarters of the chassis etc., just need to get round to finishing the painting before I get the waxoyl gun out.
 
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