amckeown

New Member
Hi all,

I am currently rebuilding my 90 from bottom up. I have a bit more to do before I complete the rolling chassis, so starting to think about which engine to fit. I originally had a 200tdi in mind, but as this is a hobby vehicle I am thinking about going V8.

As you will all know, there are so many variants out there - mind boggling for the novice! I would really appreciate your views on what will make for a straightforward and reliable build. What to look for / what to avoid when sourcing an engine etc.

All advice appreciated.

regards,
Al
 
Nothing in the previous threads help you "what rover V8 is the best" or "which is better".
 
Hi all,

I am currently rebuilding my 90 from bottom up. I have a bit more to do before I complete the rolling chassis, so starting to think about which engine to fit. I originally had a 200tdi in mind, but as this is a hobby vehicle I am thinking about going V8.

As you will all know, there are so many variants out there - mind boggling for the novice! I would really appreciate your views on what will make for a straightforward and reliable build. What to look for / what to avoid when sourcing an engine etc.

All advice appreciated.

regards,
Al


Well for starters if your 90 was originally a diesel and you're going to put a V8 in, the bulkhead will have to be significantly altered to make enough room for the V8 motor and the bellhousing for the gearbox.
And from what I've heard from various sources the best V8 is a 3.5 on carbs but with the 3.9 cylinder heads fitted to it.
 
I didnt touch the bulkhead on mine, converted it from 200TDi to 3.9 V8. Had to weld new engine mounts on of course. Plus I modified the Range Rover Manual box by fitting the rear end off the Defender box so i could still Use the same Gear Selector.

AS for what V8, from what iv heard it seems that the bigger you go the more problem you get?

Im happy with the 3.9, seems a good compromise plus injection is handy. Not a massive fan of carbs tbh.
 
I run a 3.9 with hotwire injection but I also have a 3.5 with twin SU's I am restoring.

I like the 3.9 but they all have injection probs at some point and the headgaskets and even liners can be problems particuarly on gas.

I am gonna stick with a 3.5 on carbs and have gas fitted soon and I think that it will survive it better than a later engine would
 
Mine is a 3.9 running on carbs, lpg with an automatic gearbox.

The only problem is that I'm always nursing a semi when I'm driving, making getting out of the car difficult.

3.5 is the grown ups choice - I'll get one when the head gasket goes on my one.
 
mine is a 98 discovery 3.9 v8i with gas, its done 145k and runs spot on (now ive changed air filter) but i cant help being paranoid about liner slippage, blown head gaskets, expensive repair bills, i would hope what with milage any problems would of developed by now,are there any tips to prevent failures
 
Rob, I agree although yer 10mpg at best is also a laughing point :p

V6 keep gas serviced and watch the temp well.

if its multipoint you want even distribution to each cyliner to avoid hotspots

To both of you, it will happen :p

I am going with a 3.5 carb on gas but am currently enjoying my 3.9 efi auto and 12 mpg on petrol as I drive in town or on lanes :p
 
mine is a 98 discovery 3.9 v8i with gas, its done 145k and runs spot on (now ive changed air filter) but i cant help being paranoid about liner slippage, blown head gaskets, expensive repair bills, i would hope what with milage any problems would of developed by now,are there any tips to prevent failures

Don't let the engine over heat and a liner won't slip, but over heating is more a possability with lpg fueled engines than with one running on petrol I believe. :)
 
So the chances are that my 3.5 efi on petrol with an HD radiator , weekend low revs off road usage and very careful heat monitoring should be a pretty reliable combination for a few years to come?

its done 118k and now that the rockers, head tops and sump have been scraped out and cleaned the oil stays clear on the dipstick for quite a few months.

it also doesnt seem to make much tappet noise, only on occasion, and that clears after a few minutes.

tell me good news! (please) :D
 
flush coolant change and new thermostat might have to be ordered whilst keeping close eye on temp gauge ,towing for 1st time,caravan to whitby next week will be test for her
 
So the chances are that my 3.5 efi on petrol with an HD radiator , weekend low revs off road usage and very careful heat monitoring should be a pretty reliable combination for a few years to come?

its done 118k and now that the rockers, head tops and sump have been scraped out and cleaned the oil stays clear on the dipstick for quite a few months.

it also doesnt seem to make much tappet noise, only on occasion, and that clears after a few minutes.

tell me good news! (please) :D

yup, all depends on how it was abused before you got it though mate, I hate it when people dont change there oil, it was the same on my 3.9
 
it was owned by a religion teacher! :D:D:D so im guessing there wasnt much hands on maintenance going on! However, he did give me a "bible" (geddit?!?!?!) of receipts etc which detail many many years of work and servicing etc.

my guess is that the oil wasnt changed every six months though. it was like a barbecue in there, i couldnt see the rockers or valve springs at all, completely covered in sludge - and the sump had a 1/2 inch deep layer of sludge stuck to the bottom of it. used to do an oil change and it was black after a week.

im pretty happy its clean enough now cos i last changed the oil a few months ago and its just starting to go treacle coloured on the dipstick.

i also peered up when the sump was off and we had a look at all the bores where proosible, they seemed ok, with no major scores or lip where the rings run. i was quite pleased with that. i do keep meaning to do a compression test...

its only problem now tbh is the rear main seal ****ing out. i changed it when i did the gearbox, and i think the main seal itself is ok, cos it doesnt leak into the belhousing. i think it is the side seals, cos it rusn out and down the flywheel shield. i got britpart items and they werent a cross shape, just straight, but with small side pieces. i used plenty of sealant at the top, but somehow it still leaks, worse than before tbh, but at least its not running inti the bell housing now...!

cheers :)
 
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true but also I am sure you were complaining a while ago that-that was the best you could get urs to run at and we decided that it was because you had the most uneconmical set up possible, 3.9 on carbs with gas and auto towing :p
 
I'm a novice but here are my thoughts (for what they are worth).
My 4.6HSE is dual-fulled but I run it on LPG 99% of the time (who would not). I have had serious overheat problems, and just after I bought her from the dealer she blew a head-gasket and dumped all her water thru the exhaust (It cracked the Driver's Side Cat, which now rattles like hell but they would not replace it).

Story was "Rangies ALL blow a gasket at 65-70K miles it's to be expected!!" :confused::confused::confused:

I did get new gaskets (both banks and a new heater core) but she kept using at least a litre of water each week. Eventually it got so bad that she would boil-over and dump all her water if you pushed her hard and then stopped in idling traffic (oh the shame of the many low-loader trips home:(). Dealer checked for leaks with a pressure-test and said it was OK, but it kept happening.

There was never a visible leak, drip stain or whatever on my drive or under the car anywhere I parked (except of course when she popped her cork and dumped all of her water that is).

So, out of desperation I chucked a sealant in the coolant to see if it could bung-up whatever was leaking. Blimey-oh-sodding-Riley..since then she hasn't skipped beat or lost more than a tiny little bit (1/2 a cupful) in 4 months, hard to tell really. But I no longer have to put pints in each week and I don't worry that she will let me down on an overheat...even with the air-con on full blast. :D
 

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