Quick question - tow bar fitted now onto the electrics which lead me to this thread. Using a 13pin Euro socket which has a black covered and grey covered cable on the back I know the black cable is for the lights etc. and the grey one for power. Am going to run 2x30amp cables from battery to rear left and wire in a split charge relay. In the car right hand side rear has the plug/wire ring for the stop lamps, side lamps etc. so am going to route the black covered cable to that side and left hand side for power so am going to route the grey covered cable that side. My question is the grey covered cable from the Euro socket also has the cable for reverse lights so am I right in thinking I will have to take a feed from the reversing lights in the car as the plugs in the car don't have any provision for them?
 
Taylorcraft said:
Quick question - tow bar fitted now onto the electrics which lead me to this thread. Using a 13pin Euro socket which has a black covered and grey covered cable on the back I know the black cable is for the lights etc. and the grey one for power. Am going to run 2x30amp cables from battery to rear left and wire in a split charge relay. In the car right hand side rear has the plug/wire ring for the stop lamps, side lamps etc. so am going to route the black covered cable to that side and left hand side for power so am going to route the grey covered cable that side. My question is the grey covered cable from the Euro socket also has the cable for reverse lights so am I right in thinking I will have to take a feed from the reversing lights in the car as the plugs in the car don't have any provision for them?
Click to expand...
The left side connector has the reversing lights if I remember correctly. Mine came with the LR wiring prefitted and I converted it to 13 pin. The reversing lights work and there is no splice into the lights.
 
Datatek said:
The left side connector has the reversing lights if I remember correctly. Mine came with the LR wiring prefitted and I converted it to 13 pin. The reversing lights work and there is no splice into the lights.
Click to expand...

Thanks Datatek, next question having looked at the Rave CD it shows running the 30Amp cables under the car along the chassis but would it be ok to run them in the car under the trim?
 
Why not just take one 4mm sq. feed from the front terminal post on the Becm, the one with a M6 nut. 4mm sq. cable will be more than sufficient to feed the fridge (Approx. 6-8 Amp) and the caravan battery charge. Be sure to put an inline fuse in this supply wire. Bear in mind that the individual leads in the grey 12S cable-apart from the White one, are 1.5 mm sq cross section and this includes the red (Fridge) and blue (Battery charge). There should be a spare connector in the l.h. side of the car, behind the panel, with connections for reversing lamp, ignition live (To energise relay for fridge & battery charge) and a low amperage permanent positive supply which, if running a supply from the Becm or battery will not be used...it's not suitable for carrying the loads anyway-far too light a cable.
 
Irishrover said:
Why not just take one 4mm sq. feed from the front terminal post on the Becm, the one with a M6 nut. 4mm sq. cable will be more than sufficient to feed the fridge (Approx. 6-8 Amp) and the caravan battery charge. Be sure to put an inline fuse in this supply wire. Bear in mind that the individual leads in the grey 12S cable-apart from the White one, are 1.5 mm sq cross section and this includes the red (Fridge) and blue (Battery charge). There should be a spare connector in the l.h. side of the car, behind the panel, with connections for reversing lamp, ignition live (To energise relay for fridge & battery charge) and a low amperage permanent positive supply which, if running a supply from the Becm or battery will not be used...it's not suitable for carrying the loads anyway-far too light a cable.
Click to expand...
Personally, I'm not keen on drawing any load off the BECM supply given how voltage sensitive it is.
I ran a 4mm direct from the battery in a sleeve along the top of the O/S chassis rail glued in place. There is a bung in the floor in the rear quarter so the cable came into the car through that. Obviously I fitted a fuse at the battery. The cable is used on mine for a permanent 12 volts and a relay switched 12 volts.
 
Given the amount of current carrying capacity of the main Becm feed cable and the type of connection used (Eyelet with M6 nut/washer), I have no doubts about voltage drop to the ECU, it will be no more than taking the feed straight from the battery unless the fusebox is badly corroded that the Becm is fed from via a 60 amp maxi fuse. If fog/spot lamps are fitted, together with the front heated screen, these supplies are via the Becm and the main supply cable. Can't understand why people think they need a total trailer (12S) requirement of 2 X 30A anyway. The actual current drawn will be around 7-8 amps for the fridge @ 12v and assuming that the caravan battery is partially charged another 10-15 Amps max, reducing as the battery charge level improves.
How many people have charged a battery at a constant 30 Amps for say 3-4 hours?? If the battery needed that amount of current constantly, it would definately be knackered and the plates shot.
As an alternative, the cable can be run from the battery, through the bulkhead, under the tread plates into the rear of the car. As stated, no need to run two separate feeds, just run one 4mm sq. Again, I repeat...the battery charge and fridge wires in the grey 12s cable are only 1.5 mm sq. EACH.
All the years I owned and towed with the P38 I never had any electrical problems with the 12S wiring and in all the cars I have fitted towbars and electrics, I have only ever use a 4mm sq. single supply to the fridge & battery charge relay. This supply was protected by a 30 single fuse and I have never had this fuse blow, even when I had forgotten to charge the caravan battery beforehand with a mains charger and it was virtually flat.
 
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Have you seen the glitch that occurs when a fridge switches or a water pump for that matter?
As I said, it's a personal thing, I've seen too many microprocessor problems due to power glitches.
 
Irishrover said:
Given the amount of current carrying capacity of the main Becm feed cable and the type of connection used (Eyelet with M6 nut/washer), I have no doubts about voltage drop to the ECU, it will be no more than taking the feed straight from the battery unless the fusebox is badly corroded that the Becm is fed from via a 60 amp maxi fuse. If fog/spot lamps are fitted, together with the front heated screen, these supplies are via the Becm and the main supply cable. Can't understand why people think they need a total trailer (12S) requirement of 2 X 30A anyway. The actual current drawn will be around 7-8 amps for the fridge @ 12v and assuming that the caravan battery is partially charged another 10-15 Amps max, reducing as the battery charge level improves.
How many people have charged a battery at a constant 30 Amps for say 3-4 hours?? If the battery needed that amount of current constantly, it would definately be knackered and the plates shot.
As an alternative, the cable can be run from the battery, through the bulkhead, under the tread plates into the rear of the car. As stated, no need to run two separate feeds, just run one 4mm sq. Again, I repeat...the battery charge and fridge wires in the grey 12s cable are only 1.5 mm sq. EACH.
All the years I owned and towed with the P38 I never had any electrical problems with the 12S wiring and in all the cars I have fitted towbars and electrics, I have only ever use a 4mm sq. single supply to the fridge & battery charge relay. This supply was protected by a 30 single fuse and I have never had this fuse blow, even when I had forgotten to charge the caravan battery beforehand with a mains charger and it was virtually flat.
Click to expand...


Am also running an ATC system which I think can pull 20Amps when in use. Think I am going to run 2x30Amp cable runs from the battery into the car under the trim panels to the back left 1 for the 12v live all the time and the other for 12V switched.
 
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OK All,

I need a bit more help.

I managed to get a complete swan neck towbar and 12N socket from a breakers.

Looking at the wiring it seems that with the last car it was installed on, instead of purchasing the correct connector (RAVE - connector no 1376 - 8 PIN), they had spliced into the loom connector (RAVE - connector 1375 - 8 PIN).

By chance, when I looked at my loom connector, staring me in the face is the 1376 connector I need. However, and this is where I need your help, there are no terminals with it to connect to, just the plastic casing.

So, does anybody know where I can get the metal terminals to join the wires to, and what item code/name they are known by?

Would a LR "Stealer" stock them do you think?

I could do the same as has been previously done or something similar, but I'd rather see if I can get the correct connector and do it properly first.

Cheers in advance.
 
Further to last nights posting, today i have checked with my local stealer and they don't sell the bits, just the complete unit at £130 odd quid.

However, a little searching of the internet and I have found the exact connector.
They are a type called "070 Multilock" and I got them from a company called Simtek UK.

The postage cost me more than the items:eek:

Hope this helps someone else.
 
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