Ok,

this is abit of an oldie, but I'm trying to get my EKA to work.

Before I started work the car responded to nothing except the code being entered in via the dealers computer.

I could open and lock the driver's door with the key and all other doors responded accordingly - this is when the car wasn't immobilised.

So now I'm having a go at the door lock. I've stripped the trim back and sprated some WD40 on it and pulled the pugs out and put them back again. It's now doing a whole load of new things. Whenh I lock it the red LED on the dash flashes fast and then settles to a steady pace - I think this is standard. It can laso now do the lazy lock thing and the super lock thing using the key.

I do plan to pull the thing apart once I get the right kind of screwdriver and do the appropriate tests with the multi meter, clean switches etc. However while I await delivery of tools (it takes two or three weeks to get to Rwanda) I was wondering:

Do these new things mean that the Key (EKA) switch is now working? Or just the CDL switch?

My indicators still don't flash when I open and lock it but the car was made for the French market so this may be normal.

One final question:

My key fobs don't seem to operate. I've replaced the rf receiver with new anti mobile phone model but no joy. If I get a new fob do I have to get it through a dealer or can I order on the internet and resynch myself? My car is a 1999 DSE.

Key Fobs are dealer only. You cannot resynch a secondhand FOB to your car.

I suppose you have got good batteries in the FOB. Even if the LED flashes, the batteries may be too low to transmit.

For the record, after spraying WD40 on the switch everything now works. Key fob remote, EKA, the whole lot. For good measure I have removed the lock mechanism and tested the switch with a multimeter and responds perfectly.

Also for the record, my car was immobilising because the EKA microswitch was only working intermittently. Therefore identifiying a 'lock' when I turned the key, but then not identifying the 'unlock'. As soon as I put the key in the ignition and try to turn it the whole thing shut down.

I just want to add this to the body of evidence out there suggesting many of these problems come from a gunged up microswitch in the latch mechanism.