Tronicus Maximus

Tronicus Maximus

New Member
got a problem. My diff pinion oil seal is leaking again.

Now I may have bought the wrong one last time I'm not sure.

So is there anything on the differential that could tell me which seal is needed (stamped numbers, etc.)

Its a 4 bolt flange on a 20-odd spline shaft (gave up counting after lost me place for the 4th time)

so its either:
FRC4589

or

FRC8220

or is there a 3rd way.

Many thanks
 
Thanks

just to show you the problem:
tronicus-maximus-albums-diff-pinion-bearing-seal-change-picture13796-oil-leak2.jpg


so the bit between the flange and the diff is the mud shield yeh?
tronicus-maximus-albums-diff-pinion-bearing-seal-change-picture13793-mud-shield.jpg


Here's all the oil flung over the axle area:
tronicus-maximus-albums-diff-pinion-bearing-seal-change-picture13795-oil-flung-over-axle-area.jpg
 
check axle breather as if it's blocked could make it leak also check condition of flange (where it seals) as if it's a bit rusty/pitted it will damage the seal.
 
I have got the same issue
My 1997 Defender rear pinion oil seal started to leak. Ordered a new oil seal from my usual gang, going my reg. number. The seal that turned up was the all metal one with the leather inner part. From the picture you will see that once I got the flange off it was a different seal. There is a stone guard on the flange so the seal with the leather inner just does not look right, or am I wrong ??

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/membe...earing-seal-change-picture13796-oil-leak2.jpg



So I got a replacement seal the same as the one in the diff, got it back together. Tied tightening the flange nut to the prescribed torque but felt it was getting too tight and sure enough the the flange stopped rotating. I wound flange nut back until the free play in the bearing was gone and it felt "about right".




New oil seal still leaking like a sieve !!!!!!

Advice please ! road trip in two weeks to Europe !
 

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Sibbers said:
I have got the same issue
My 1997 Defender rear pinion oil seal started to leak. Ordered a new oil seal from my usual gang, going my reg. number. The seal that turned up was the all metal one with the leather inner part. From the picture you will see that once I got the flange off it was a different seal. There is a stone guard on the flange so the seal with the leather inner just does not look right, or am I wrong ??

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/membe...earing-seal-change-picture13796-oil-leak2.jpg



So I got a replacement seal the same as the one in the diff, got it back together. Tied tightening the flange nut to the prescribed torque but felt it was getting too tight and sure enough the the flange stopped rotating. I wound flange nut back until the free play in the bearing was gone and it felt "about right".




New oil seal still leaking like a sieve !!!!!!

Advice please ! road trip in two weeks to Europe !
Click to expand...

groove worn in the shaft|
 
seal isnt in far enough to start with so could bind when flange nut/bolt tightened,which it must be TIGHT not adjusted ,other thing that would cause binding is missing out spacer or if youve had front bearing out a shim or both which sit just behind outer bearing,the seal youve fitted is ftc5258 it should sit a few mm inside housing as outer lip runs against mud shield on flange
 
I am planning on doing mine but it is a Salisbury axle. (1996 110 CSW)
The manual I have doesn't give a specific torque that you should tighten it back up to I think the figs it has are force figures which you do with a spring balance??

Anyone done one of these?
 
aeu2515 is seal,there is no torque as you have to crush spacer to get correct rolling resistance ,resistance depends on whether new or old bearings are used , you need a long bar and a long tool to hold flange nuts can take some tightening
 
Tighten to the correct torque - even if it seems wrong. The leather seal is from the older series Rover diff.
 
chezvegas said:
I am planning on doing mine but it is a Salisbury axle. (1996 110 CSW)
The manual I have doesn't give a specific torque that you should tighten it back up to I think the figs it has are force figures which you do with a spring balance??

Anyone done one of these?
Click to expand...


any chance you fancy doing a few piccies as you go, mines on the to do list, its not bad yet, but go the seal and bearings, hoping its not a diff out job to do both at the same time.
 
oxides said:
Tighten to the correct torque - even if it seems wrong. The leather seal is from the older series Rover diff.
Click to expand...

That's the thing, I can't find a torque for it just a measure of force thing that you do with a spring balance
 
chezvegas said:
That's the thing, I can't find a torque for it just a measure of force thing that you do with a spring balance
Click to expand...

thats because there is no torque setting for salisbury ,nut squashes a spacer till the correct preload is added to bearings ,quite stiff to rotate as they are quite big bearings,
 
Last edited:
Hi James,
Could you explain a bit more about the measure of force bit. I haven't needed to do anything that requires that type of assembly before. I was planning on re using the original bearings and just replacing the seal. Unless you think I should do other bits whilst I have it in pieces.

Appreciate your patience in this.
My mechanics are mostly how tight is it and stick a torque wrench on it.
Cheers
Craig
 
wrap a string round pinion and pull with spring balance 30-40 lbs new bearings 15-30 lbs old bearings, if nut wasnt a heavy duty locknut you could just wind nut up and feel when nipped ,best way is to fit new spacer and adjust or flatten old spacer out a little and use it , you just have to feel for free play been removed and once it is carefully keeping tightening a little and checking, it goes from not tight enough to over very quickly if you use torque wrench to check rolling resistance the above figures are lbs inches
 
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