Dorset VogueSE

Dorset VogueSE

Well-Known Member
I need to change the front shocks out on the my RR P38. I've had a look around and want to put some good quality replacement units on. I have seen a huge variation in prices and dont know if the quality reflects the price.

Options on the table are:

OEM replacement
Monroe std or heavy duty
Terrafirma
Koni (massively expensive)
****part Cellular Dynamic Shocks (whatever is supposed to be special about them)

With the exception of the Koni's they are all going to cost around £80/pair so any knowledge or experience of particularly aftermarket parts would be appreciated
 
Standard Britpart shocks (not cellular) give a very comfortable ride and will last about 2 - 3 years. You can get Boge shocks, said to be OEM. Quite a bit stiffer than the Britparts, you feel expansion joints and ruts much more. Really depends what you'll use it for. If mostly on road and you want the comfort I'd go Britpart. More mixed use and possibly longer life, take Boge. Oh and both will cost around 50 quid the pair.
 
Boge are the OEM shockers, purchased all 4 for mine from Island 4x4......happy with price and ride....
 
No brainer really..If you want original handling...fit OEM. However, if you wish to improve the original design and feel...because of advertising hype, that you can greatly improve the P38 design...then fit the most expensive shocks you can buy, because the 'ads. say so!!
Whilst you are at it, change the EAS to coils because the ads say they are better.
As I have said many times before, it appears that a lot of people want to run a P38 on a low budget with "Where can I get this for next to nothing ?" questions. If you simply can't afford to run and maintain properly a P38...I suggest you look at a more suitable means of transport. Maybe a small runaround or a bike.
Unfortunately P38 ownership is a financial commitment for which you should be fully prepared-high fuel costs immediately spring to mind.
The P38 was designed and built to run on petrol not LPG (Not even a factory option) or diesel (Not used chip fat).
We would all like running costs to be the same as a Fiat 500 but I'm afraid it ain't gonna happen !!
As I have said many times before.."If you can't stand the heat-get out of the kitchen" and give up any ideas of being a "Wannabe" at little cost.
The Classic, Disco., P38, L322, Rangerover Sport, Jag., Beemer, Merc., Lexus etc. require financial input higher than the normal faimily car.
No one would buy a second hand Roller or Bentley and expect the running and maintenance costs to be low even though they got a bargain and only paid £1000 for it.
Some folks need to get real and smell the coffee !!!!
Rant over.........
:behindsofa:
 
Last edited:
Another vote for Boge from me - no reason to change from OEM, particularly given the fact you can do all 4 for around £100.

I did mine recently and are exactly what I expected from OEM parts.
 
when i bought mine it was fitted with very recent cellular dynamic britpart shocks, replaced the fronts with oem boge shocks in the first week of owning as the ride is awfull and the rears will be replaced when funds permit as they give a rock hard feel very bumpy ride. had cheapo britparts on my old dse which actually gave a good ride compared to the cellular dynamics!
 
Irishrover said:
As I have said many times before, it appears that a lot of people want to run a P38 on a low budget with "Where can I get this for next to nothing ?" questions. If you simply can't afford to run and maintain properly a P38...I suggest you look at a more suitable means of transport.
Click to expand...

You're a brave man, John. I got shot down in flames and called a snob for stating the same! :p
 
John, you dont have to tell me about RR ownership, i've been the proud owner for 5 yrs now and know all about the financial implications. I have been very grateful for the advice and assistance i've recieved on this forum (and the loan of special tools ;)).

I have recently fitted new front air springs, radius arm bushes (axle and chassis), panhard rod bushes and anti roll bar bushes. This has all massively improved the tramlining i'd been experiencing, but it is still getting unsettled over bumps, especially at speed, which is why i'm looking to replace the shocks too.

I live in the sticks and drive on rough, potholed country lanes which give the suspension a good workout. That is why I asked if there was a product with improved performance over OEM, not just falling for the advertising hype.

Given the replies so far, I think i'll stick with OEM replacement, which are also cheaper than the products I was looking at, now there's a bonus.
 
Irishrover said:
No brainer really..If you want original handling...fit OEM. However, if you wish to improve the original design and feel...because of advertising hype, that you can greatly improve the P38 design...then fit the most expensive shocks you can buy, because the 'ads. say so!!
Whilst you are at it, change the EAS to coils because the ads say they are better.
As I have said many times before, it appears that a lot of people want to run a P38 on a low budget with "Where can I get this for next to nothing ?" questions. If you simply can't afford to run and maintain properly a P38...I suggest you look at a more suitable means of transport. Maybe a small runaround or a bike.
Unfortunately P38 ownership is a financial commitment for which you should be fully prepared-high fuel costs immediately spring to mind.
The P38 was designed and built to run on petrol not LPG (Not even a factory option) or diesel (Not used chip fat).
We would all like running costs to be the same as a Fiat 500 but I'm afraid it ain't gonna happen !!
As I have said many times before.."If you can't stand the heat-get out of the kitchen" and give up any ideas of being a "Wannabe" at little cost.
The Classic, Disco., P38, L322, Rangerover Sport, Jag., Beemer, Merc., Lexus etc. require financial input higher than the normal faimily car.
No one would buy a second hand Roller or Bentley and expect the running and maintenance costs to be low even though they got a bargain and only paid £1000 for it.
Some folks need to get real and smell the coffee !!!!
Rant over.........
:behindsofa:
Click to expand...


Yep just about the size of it John. Buying a car that cost upwards of £45,000.00 new and expecting to maintain it for the same cost as a Ford Escort is a cloud cuckoo land dream. The lack of proper and shoddy maintenance is the reason there are so many bad ones about.
 
Also agree with the above.

To be fair to the OP though, I don't think he was looking to save money, just for some help choosing the best shocks for his car....

Cheers

Jerry
 
jerrytlr said:
Also agree with the above.

To be fair to the OP though, I don't think he was looking to save money, just for some help choosing the best shocks for his car....

Cheers

Jerry
Click to expand...

Then OEM shocks are as good as anything. And unless you're constantly driving along cobbled streets at high speed you don't need gas shocks either.
 
Design and test engineers spend a great deal of time and money developing suspension components and decisions are made on the basis of the best compromise between comfort, handling, cost etc.
So, unless you intend using the vehicle for extreme off roading I would stick with OEM.
 
Also agree with the above. <br />
<br />
To be fair to the OP though, I don't think he was looking to save money, just for some help choosing the best shocks for his car....<br />
<br />
Cheers<br />
<br />
Jerry
Click to expand...
<br />
<br />
Then OEM shocks are as good as anything. And unless you're constantly driving along cobbled streets at high speed you don't need gas shocks either.
Click to expand...

That's what I got from the initial post as well, no mention of doing it on the cheap just wanted advice on peeps experiences
 
:cool: you sir, just hit the nail on the head, love your work, lol....
Irishrover said:
No brainer really..If you want original handling...fit OEM. However, if you wish to improve the original design and feel...because of advertising hype, that you can greatly improve the P38 design...then fit the most expensive shocks you can buy, because the 'ads. say so!!
Whilst you are at it, change the EAS to coils because the ads say they are better.
As I have said many times before, it appears that a lot of people want to run a P38 on a low budget with "Where can I get this for next to nothing ?" questions. If you simply can't afford to run and maintain properly a P38...I suggest you look at a more suitable means of transport. Maybe a small runaround or a bike.
Unfortunately P38 ownership is a financial commitment for which you should be fully prepared-high fuel costs immediately spring to mind.
The P38 was designed and built to run on petrol not LPG (Not even a factory option) or diesel (Not used chip fat).
We would all like running costs to be the same as a Fiat 500 but I'm afraid it ain't gonna happen !!
As I have said many times before.."If you can't stand the heat-get out of the kitchen" and give up any ideas of being a "Wannabe" at little cost.
The Classic, Disco., P38, L322, Rangerover Sport, Jag., Beemer, Merc., Lexus etc. require financial input higher than the normal faimily car.
No one would buy a second hand Roller or Bentley and expect the running and maintenance costs to be low even though they got a bargain and only paid £1000 for it.
Some folks need to get real and smell the coffee !!!!
Rant over.........
:behindsofa:
Click to expand...
 
After going to coils(mistake) mine ate shocks,OEM lasted from Hants to Ceuta,OME not much longer. Boge lasted better but as Irish-rover wrote, pay peanuts get monkeys. Fit Bilsteins and have done with it, what the hell is the point of fitting adjustables if you have to take them off to do it,or have breakable knobs on them??!!
 
How tight should the nut be at the bottom of the Shock?

Rave says 45 or 50 (can't remember) but how tight it that in real life? (no torque thingy) would it be bad if it was too tight??
 
jamesblake said:
How tight should the nut be at the bottom of the Shock?

Rave says 45 or 50 (can't remember) but how tight it that in real life? (no torque thingy) would it be bad if it was too tight??
Click to expand...


45 nm. 33 lb ft. Full up then a small nip.
 
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