Ratten

Member
Without going for a "what oil" thread award...

I'm a firm fan of the Morris products even though they recommend 10w40 for the 1998 3.5 efi...i'm a user of Golden film 20w50 (https://www.morrislubricantsonline....w-50-classic-motor-oil.html?variation_id=1293 ), which from the description seems to suit everything from the Ark forward and my car is happy with it!

I also see they have some swanky new Versimax HD3 20w50 (https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/versimax-hd3-20w-50.html ) which is billed as a diesel oil which contains lots of detergent. I can't see any mention of the zddp etc in their tech sheets on it, but i like to sound of cleanliness which i'm sure will move my engine closer to godliness.

Does anyone have any experience / views / knowledge about the new product? (i know they have a helpline, but don't want to be told to use 10w40 etc)
 
Without going for a "what oil" thread award...

I'm a firm fan of the Morris products even though they recommend 10w40 for the 1998 3.5 efi...i'm a user of Golden film 20w50 (https://www.morrislubricantsonline....w-50-classic-motor-oil.html?variation_id=1293 ), which from the description seems to suit everything from the Ark forward and my car is happy with it!

I also see they have some swanky new Versimax HD3 20w50 (https://www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/versimax-hd3-20w-50.html ) which is billed as a diesel oil which contains lots of detergent. I can't see any mention of the zddp etc in their tech sheets on it, but i like to sound of cleanliness which i'm sure will move my engine closer to godliness.

Does anyone have any experience / views / knowledge about the new product? (i know they have a helpline, but don't want to be told to use 10w40 etc)
Morrises stuff is OK, I have used it before with no issues.

But as far as I know, there are no advantages to using a high detergent diesel oil in a petrol engine. Petrol engines don't put nearly as much carbon into the oil as diesels, so won't be that dirty anyway.

So if you, and your car, are happy with the oil you are using, I would just stay with that.
 
Ha yes...88
It needs a lot more oil when you smack the oil pressure switch while removing ste steering box and it leaks afterwards while you let it run!
 
1998 3.5efi ? o_O
With you on the 20w/50 though, the venerable RV8 does date from the Ark & needs a mineral oil.
I have to note that the viscosity of the oil according to SAE has nothing to do with the base from which this oil was made. Our factory made 20W50 oil for sports drift cars and it was synthetic.
 
That's true 20/50 is 20/50 but synthetic is more slippery
Do you mean that synthetics have the ability to flow through leaking seals in the engine? Why? After all, it has the same cold viscosity as mineral oil - 20W, yes, the viscosity index is better, the structure is more uniform, therefore the term "life" of the oil is longer than that of mineral oil. But you're definitely right - if it's a regular old engine - there's no point in using synthetics. However, that's not what my post was about. For some reason, people have a deep-rooted association that 10w40 is semi-synthetic, 15W40 (15w50, 20w50, 20w60) is mineral. This is far from always a direct correspondence.
 
People associate synth with low numbers like 0W5 because that's where it started out, it's only more recently they've started making the thicker stuff more commonplace.

That said, fully synthetic is more slippery, it contains more friction modifiers and other chemicals. There's a reason you don't use it when you're breaking in an engine... It's simply too slippy
 
People associate synth with low numbers like 0W5 because that's where it started out, it's only more recently they've started making the thicker stuff more commonplace.

That said, fully synthetic is more slippery, it contains more friction modifiers and other chemicals. There's a reason you don't use it when you're breaking in an engine... It's simply too slippy
And falls out the old V8 lifters ;)
 
People associate synth with low numbers like 0W5 because that's where it started out, it's only more recently they've started making the thicker stuff more commonplace.

That said, fully synthetic is more slippery, it contains more friction modifiers and other chemicals. There's a reason you don't use it when you're breaking in an engine... It's simply too slippy

That's because they're trying to get the high mpg figures.
 
Regardless of the way you look at it the RV8 needs zddp.
Synthetic oil has a place, but IMO not in an old engine.
Lots of recommendation's and I know @Henry_b seems to recommend VR1

Only an example from google.

Stick with what works for a reason ;). Its generally in the manual with the specs they are usually the best specs to stick with.

I would never put synthetic in my rotary engined cars.

J
 
Regardless of the way you look at it the RV8 needs zddp.
Synthetic oil has a place, but IMO not in an old engine.
Lots of recommendation's and I know @Henry_b seems to recommend VR1

Only an example from google.

Stick with what works for a reason ;). Its generally in the manual with the specs they are usually the best specs to stick with.

I would never put synthetic in my rotary engined cars.

J
+1 on the VR1
 

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