Datatek said:
There is no fault code for pump failure, but there is one for the thermal trip on the pump which might have tripped if has been running continuously. That can be fixed for pennies.
Click to expand...

The thermal cutouts are only about £2.20 each, if bought in volume, but difficult to find singlely and you'll pay significantly more, I found.

Datatek said:
As for airbags, I reckon the Arnott Gen 2's are worth the small extra cost. If the pump is knackered, a new one for £158 sounds like a good deal:D

For a good deal on Arnott Gen 2's try P38 spares via Ebay, for some reason when I bought their price on Ebay was lower than buying direct. Very helpful people.
Click to expand...

I got my Gen 2's from them too, as Datatek says, helpful and speedy, and yes ebay price was cheaper than direct via their website.
 
the compressor doesnt seem to work ? when i got the fault read they cleared eas fault and it work on and off for about an hour then eas fault came back the front is lower than the back, its probably about 4 inches from arch to tyre on front and the back is alot higher ,but it has been like this for 3 days now and bags have not moved ,i have not heard the pump since but if you feel the pump its warm ish to the touch unless thats from engine heat? thanks again for all your help ive ordered the bags but was wondering if it was something else with the pump before i bought one
 
Hi Will
Whats the reason for changing the air bags?? if you have some holes in them and letting the air out the compressor will be running constantly to keep the suspension up and therefore the compressor will cut out to avoid battery drain or be over heating and the thermal cut out switch.
to test the air bags park the car on level ground, wait for it to level (don't open the doors and let it idle for a couple of minutes) without switching off the engine open driver side door and pop the tailgate open then leave for 12hours and see if it drops.
It sound like your hieght sensors are worn and may need replacing, unless some one has already replaced them and not re calibrated the system. this will cause the compressor to run alot because the sensors can't tell the block that it's reached the correct level.
first test to see if you have a leak in the bags, then check height sensors, if the pump is 3 months old then unless you have another issue some where else it will be good.
 
the rear air bags have cracks in, im new to range rovers but its been in the same position for 3 days+ now and hasnt dropped at all,i personally think the back is a bit higher but was told tonight at petrol station it looks like its stuck in standard position? as soon as i turn car on it says eas fault once and thats it but the orange car and arrow stays on all the time and all lights on centre console button are iluminated and dont do anything when pressed for adjustment, im changing rear bags as there cracked but surely if they were leaking i would be on the bump stops? was wondering if it was this cut off switch but might be worth replacing then i know its new maybe
 
just because you can see cracks in the external walls of the air bag are leaking the rubber is very thick and the cracks can just be on the surface so if it's not dropping over night then i wouldn't replace them yet.
you need to get the code read either at a garage (pricey) or buy a cable and down load the software to read it yourself. it has gone in to a soft fault code, meaning that the range rover will select standard ride height to get you to the garage. hard fault and it will lower to the ground and the compressor will be locked out till the fault is rectified, so's not to damaged the compressor.
big tip do not buy the £95 one on ebay for an extra £50 you get a new one for island 4x4 with a year warranty.

what exactly did the fault code read???
 
got it read at the green oval garage in leeds, a land rover specialsit it said compressor faulty or compressor fault and they quote 295 for a genuine compressor and half hour for fitting they did clear the fault but drove for an hour on motor way then it came back cheers
 
i dont know how else to check it? do you know of any easy way to check it? i would like not to change it lol as it would save me a bit of money for crimbo dont know anything else to do really it cost me 35 quid to get the fault on it read
 
thats why you need to download the software if you have a laptop.
i tested mine by unscrewing the mounting cushion and the compressor pipe....get elastic band and balloon and fix over the compressor outlet. when the ballon pops it's pumping.
 
not all the free software show the comp over heat signal.
the three wires going to the comp plug two thich wires feed and earth and a thin black wire add a 12 volt feed and the comp works this shows the overheat resister has failed usualy after the piston has been replaced as pulling the piston arm off the motor causes the bearing to shift and grind the resister away
 
ladyranger said:
just because you can see cracks in the external walls of the air bag are leaking the rubber is very thick and the cracks can just be on the surface so if it's not dropping over night then i wouldn't replace them yet.
you need to get the code read either at a garage (pricey) or buy a cable and down load the software to read it yourself. it has gone in to a soft fault code, meaning that the range rover will select standard ride height to get you to the garage. hard fault and it will lower to the ground and the compressor will be locked out till the fault is rectified, so's not to damaged the compressor.
big tip do not buy the £95 one on ebay for an extra £50 you get a new one for island 4x4 with a year warranty.

what exactly did the fault code read???
Click to expand...

If the airbags have visible cracks, they will be leaking, just like a tyre they will leak more or less in different positions as the rubber folds under. Spray them with a soapy water mix and look for bubbles.
The orange arrow and the four lights on permenantly indicate an EAS fault, most likely a height sensor. You really nead to read the fault codes or you are just guessing. The pump will not run often as it has gone up to max height and frozen in that position, as the bag fold under has moved it is likely that the leak has stopped temporarily hence not much pump activity. With the software from www.rswsolutions.com you can turn the compressor on and off to test it.
 
Last edited:
AIR SUPPLY LEAK OR COMPRESSOR FAILURE
This fault is set when the system is unable to bring more than one sensor to its target and the pressure switch remained off during that time. Use Health Check and Dynamic Tests to locate the cause.
Click to expand...

I'm not 100% sure but I think that if you have this fault logged the compressor will not work until cleared.

also

THE COMPRESSOR TURNED OFF AND WILL NOT RUN FOR SEVERAL MINUTES
The compressor has probably overheated. If the thermal trip (127ºC) occurs, there will be a three-minute cool down period during which compressor operation will not occur. This cool down period can be overridden by turning the ignition off and allowing the system to power down.
Click to expand...

Also, the compressor does not run when levelling.
 
Just to sort a few misconceptions in this thread. The driver pack has nothing to do with the compressor. If the compressor does not run, check relay 20 and fuse 40, 40 amp in fuse box. Relay 20 is activated direct from ECU and does not go through driver pack. Check for continuity of red/ black leads on compressor to prove function of temp cut out.
 
i will have another check i popped it to the landrover garage and paid for a diagnostics from them so i knew what was wrong they said faulty compressor and gave me a price for fixing/fitting ,wish i knew someone i could trust round here to check over for me lol
 
willsp2007 said:
i will have another check i popped it to the landrover garage and paid for a diagnostics from them so i knew what was wrong they said faulty compressor and gave me a price for fixing/fitting ,wish i knew someone i could trust round here to check over for me lol
Click to expand...

what is your location,there might be someone that could help you.
 
I've just replaced my pump seal with one off eBay. First pump lasted nine years, second one (or at least the seal) only lasted four. Should be a two year service replacement, in my view.

Island 4x4 has supplied my new set of springs - they seem reliable and easy to deal with, and I have had quite a few parts from them in recent years.

While tinkering with this, I have found the EAS FAULT warning very tame - ie clears when problem is solved.

It was interesting to note that while the old compressor seal was extremely knackered, it would eventually generate enough pressure for lift, but it might take half an hour's drive to get far off the bump stops. Even so, it would get to a stage where my local mechanical sage (Steve at James French) could not find a fault with it. When I stripped it down, I was amazed that it had been functioning at all. Even with all that, I did not get a COMPRESSOR OVERHEAT problem.

The nervous might like to note that a seal change takes a leisurely 45 minutes and can mostly be done in a warm kitchen. Any members within reach of Oxford who are worried about this job are welcome to contact me and come round for some moral support.
 
Last edited:
ladyranger - good test technique, but I decided my compressor was not up to scratch just by unscrewing the inlet filter and sticking a finger over the hole to assess suction while it was running. There wasn't any to speak of!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
P38A 97 P38 Gems - EAS issue which seems to have expanded
2 3 4
Replies
79
Views
5K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
R
Classic Classic EAS Diagnostics Help Near Nottingham
2
Replies
20
Views
2K
RAW111111
R
R
I hate P38's so MUCH!!!
Replies
17
Views
2K
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
S
Defenders Vs Insurers tomfoolery
Replies
0
Views
834
shaynecm
S
Henry_b
EAS Pump Noise + A Handy hint eh!
Replies
3
Views
579
Rubberknees
Rubberknees