WOOHOO!!!

All done. New FWH installed successfully and I've been out to test the 4WD. Works as expected, awesome!

Thanks to Nitemare and everyone else on here who've been so patient and helpful. Very very much appreciated.

Now, on to fixing the thermostat, the temperature sender, the lock on the rear door, checking oil levels in the diffs, gearbox, etc....
So much more fun to come :)

Don't you just love Landyzone :) apart from all the jokes, insults, **** taking and bad language there is a wealth of knowledge and help to be had.

So to my contribution, don't just check the oil levels etc, the vehicle is new to you and you have no idea of it's true history,do a full fluids change, engine, boxes, axles, brakes, coolant the lot, then you will know they are right.
 
That thought has indeed occurred to me and is basically my plan.
The next thing I need to do is figure out how the hell to get to the main gearbox fill plug.
Then I'll work on the diffs (same problem).
A workshop manual has a very prominent space on my Christmas list :D
 
main gearbox filling is a pain in the arse unless you have a pump, biggest bottle i've managed to get in the available space is i think 500ml (might only be 250ml)

two points to fill on the gearbox, 1 = a bung up the side on the passenger side (also is the level bung) , this is just the main gearbox... 2 = a bung in the rear of the transfer box which again is also the level bung (easy one to get at)

front axle has three fill points, front of diff pan has a bung in it, each swivel has a bung in the back of them

rear diff, if it's a late S3 axle may also have a bung in the pan, if either axle doesn't have a bung then you'll need to get to the diff casting and find the bung screwed into that

fill oils in each bung until oil comes back out

now whilst you're under there you might as well take your grease gun under and get stuck into greasing both props (3 nipples per prop) and then go round greasing each and all track rod ends that you can

there's two more points that are worth oiling/checking, 1 = steering box which is accessible under the driver wing (may have a tin cover over it) again a bung to fill through... 2 = is the steering relay (behind the radiator grill), you need to take two small bolts out of the top and dribble oil in (i use a large syringe to pump it in) fill the relay until the oil rises out of the opposite hole/thread

you'll get the hang of it (along with wondering why you ever bought a Series :rofl: )
 
main gearbox filling is a pain in the arse unless you have a pump, biggest bottle i've managed to get in the available space is i think 500ml (might only be 250ml)

two points to fill on the gearbox, 1 = a bung up the side on the passenger side (also is the level bung) , this is just the main gearbox... 2 = a bung in the rear of the transfer box which again is also the level bung (easy one to get at)

front axle has three fill points, front of diff pan has a bung in it, each swivel has a bung in the back of them

rear diff, if it's a late S3 axle may also have a bung in the pan, if either axle doesn't have a bung then you'll need to get to the diff casting and find the bung screwed into that

fill oils in each bung until oil comes back out

now whilst you're under there you might as well take your grease gun under and get stuck into greasing both props (3 nipples per prop) and then go round greasing each and all track rod ends that you can

there's two more points that are worth oiling/checking, 1 = steering box which is accessible under the driver wing (may have a tin cover over it) again a bung to fill through... 2 = is the steering relay (behind the radiator grill), you need to take two small bolts out of the top and dribble oil in (i use a large syringe to pump it in) fill the relay until the oil rises out of the opposite hole/thread

you'll get the hang of it (along with wondering why you ever bought a Series :rofl: )

Get yourself one of these Clarke CGG500 500cc Oil Suction Gun - Machine Mart it makes doing the gearboxes so much easier.
 
A workshop manual has a very prominent space on my Christmas list :D

Download the manuals from landroverweb.net (it's not working at moment but was the other days) - let me know if you can't download them and I can send them you. They're the original Land Rover service manuals and in my opinion about 4000% more useful than the haynes.

I spent £20 on ink printing them out but it's been worth it to have them at the ready in the workshop. The parts catalogue should not be overlooked, it makes ordering new parts a doddle and the exploded diagrams are always worth a look before you start a job to let you know what to expect and to realise when the last bugger who did the job left an important part out!

D
 

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