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Get-me-back-in-the-mud

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Hi, any idea where is best to install another coolant sensor on a td5 engine? Have seen the ones you can put in the top hose, but requires cutting. Would rather not, but if needs must.

Anyone any idea of the inside diameter of the top hose? Save me stripping it to get a size

Also what gauge am I best buying. I've looked at these mad man ones but I can justify the cash for a motor I use a couple of times a month.
 
What about any cheap K series thermocouple and a cheap digi gauge from ebay, slip into any hose you want using the little rubber adaptors you used to get with kenlowe style fan sensors?

Like this as cheap as chips, I know its 220v mains powered but they also do 12 volt ones I just could not be arsed to search!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-Digital-LCD-Temp-Temperature-Controller-Switch-Thermostat-Relay-w-Sensor/152155686915?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid=2220072&algo=SIC.MBE&ao=2&asc=20140122125356&meid=6f146909304c4770b808974640e5484f&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=182404589322
 
Drill a hole in the elbow and cut thread in it, that's how i did, put a piece of foam or something in it before you start then pull it out gently when the job is done to not let filings in or remove the elbow and do it so, here's mine, used some locdtite on the sensor's thread, working a treat

ECT EGTsensors2.jpg
 
There's enough space in the aluminium outlet from the head into the top hose to drill & tap for a standard temp sensor.
It's certainly useful have something connected to a temp gauge that has useful readings. You can get a gauge off thiefbay with sensor for less than £15.

Edit :Beaten to the post (!) by Sierrafery who provided me with the idea!
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
Drill a hole in the elbow and cut thread in it, that's how i did, put a piece of foam or something in it before you start then pull it out gently when the job is done to not let filings in or remove the elbow and do it so, here's mine, used some locdtite on the sensor's thread, working a treat

View attachment 122309
Click to expand...


Curious why you put your egt thermocouple in the egr blank plate as surely thats only going to read what cylinder one is doing rather than all five combined?

Screen Shot 2017-04-28 at 11.40.34.png
Screen Shot 2017-04-28 at 11.40.46.png
 
better learn some physics and you'll see that the inertial thermic tranzition is less than 5% in a mqx 2.5l volume like the td5's exhaust manifold is.... so i counted this thing from the beginning..... or do you think that the EGT on one piston is so much different than the overall reading? .... knock yourself out with that middle piipe setup but i'm convinced myself that it's no huge difference and the gist of this whole EGT thing is to not see readings close to 800 regardless where they come from ......i apologise
 
Wow, slow your roll Sierrafery, I may be wrong here, but I got the impression lynall was sort of asking a question, not judging the wisdom of your setup....
 
sierrafery said:
better learn some physics and you'll see that the inertial thermic tranzition is less than 5% in a mqx 2.5l volume like the td5's exhaust manifold is.... so i counted this thing from the beginning..... or do you think that the EGT on one piston is so much different than the overall reading? .... knock yourself out with that middle piipe setup but i'm convinced myself that it's no huge difference and the gist of this whole EGT thing is to not see readings close to 800 regardless where they come from ......i apologise
Click to expand...


I was genuinely interested hence the reason I asked, you dont learn if you dont ask and the reason some people dont ask is?
I would say just about every egt set up ive seen pics of have all been where all the cylinders meet ie near the turbo, there must be a good reason for it?

What I was thinking was say cylinder 1 is weak compared to cyls 2 to 5 would you be under the impression the egt was running at say 800 when in fact the other cylinders were running hotter say 900?

I have seen an engine with the exhaust port partially blocked with carbon on cylinder one, so it wasnt doing its useful share of the work so could provide a false sense of security.

Ps shouldnt tranzition have an S in it?
 
As i said . My apologies. My english might not be the best and there are many cases when i misunderstand and i missbehave. Sorry
 
No need to apologise thats the problem with the written word it can be interpereted so many ways.
 
Not so much today but for April. First fitted a new aerial, whilst fitting the inner wing decided to give up the ghost. New wing fitted. Took car (disco 1) Drove car to town, in car park an almighty clunk, on investigating found a large amount of play in front wheel (vertical) thought it was the wheel bearing, changed it, play still there it was the top swivel joint, bolts on axle flange heavily corroded, inserted the new swivel pins and bearings without removing the hub. Forgot the initial problem was the demise of the cv joint. Happy days, can't complain about mat'l costs less than £150 including aerial.
Spoke to my friend (Mechanic) think I'll change to a BMW. His reply "BMW parts are a lot dearer than LR". Disco out today working well, stick with it unless government change tax cost.
 
welshspringer said:
Not so much today but for April. First fitted a new aerial, whilst fitting the inner wing decided to give up the ghost. New wing fitted. Took car (disco 1) Drove car to town, in car park an almighty clunk, on investigating found a large amount of play in front wheel (vertical) thought it was the wheel bearing, changed it, play still there it was the top swivel joint, bolts on axle flange heavily corroded, inserted the new swivel pins and bearings without removing the hub. Forgot the initial problem was the demise of the cv joint. Happy days, can't complain about mat'l costs less than £150 including aerial.
Spoke to my friend (Mechanic) think I'll change to a BMW. His reply "BMW parts are a lot dearer than LR". Disco out today working well, stick with it unless government change tax cost.
Click to expand...


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