Arh....ok thanks wammers, so if there is power to fuse 2 under the seat but not to the connectors that join to the underneath of the seat then the BECM is at fault?
 
Arh....ok thanks wammers, so if there is power to fuse 2 under the seat but not to the connectors that join to the underneath of the seat then the BECM is at fault?

Check fuse 2 if that is ok. Check for power to white connectors, L/H C1401 pin 1 Brown/Red. R/H C1403 pin 1 Brown/Blue. If there is power to those. See RAVE heated seat diagrams for further connectors in this circuit for continuity checks.
 
They were held at the 2012 Heated Seat Olympics

:D

:hysterically_laughi......... driving-bummers-hot-seat.jpg
 
Always worth checking the multimeter lead hasn't got a break in it's wire!! Getting power to the connector so now taking the seat apart looking for a break in the seat base.
 
Always worth checking the multimeter lead hasn't got a break in it's wire!! Getting power to the connector so now taking the seat apart looking for a break in the seat base.

Yes multimeters that actually work are a great asset. :D:D:D
 
Followed the rangerovers.net instructions on the heated seats and upgraded the thermo switches and mended the breaks in the heated elements. True to form the breaks were in the base of the seat in the crease of the leather. Also had a broken connector to one of the thermo switches. First seat was a bit daunting not having done it before but the instructions were great, the second seat was a piece of p!$$. So what was the outcome.....well the seats never worked so anything would be a bonus, but the seats are hot, so niccccccccccce!
 
Just a quick update.... My drivers seat stopped working, it's been two years since I fixed it! Turned out to be the spade connector on the thermo switch in the seat that I upgraded had come off!! A lot of work stripping down the seat just for that so take a bit of advice...if you have your seat apart to mend a broken wire SOLDER the wire to the thermo switch.
 

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