BigJock2005 said:

Only two things concerning me, which I don't think are a problem from searching these forums and the web, but wouldn't mind some comments.
1. When the nuts are torqued up (in star turn of course) then end of the stud is about flush with the nut, it doesn't protrude at all. While all the nut thread seems to be used, please tell me I wasn't supposed to change the wheel studs as well???
2. There is a 3-4mm gap between the modular hub and the axle. These are definitely RR Classic/Defender/Disco 1 wheels. From reading, this is common, and it's the tapered nuts that centre and hold the wheel. Anyone think differently?

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1: This is not a problem, and fitting flush is actualy better than mine which sit slightly low, not using the last thread of the nut. Although @Al2O3 's advice is the old school fitters safety precaution it is not necessary for thread to protrude and is safe for thread to sit low as long as other precautions are taken. For example the fitment of Factory HD wheels without fitting extended studs as the army did to the whole fleet. Only about half the depth nut is used but a higher torque is used to compensate.

2: The gap around the centre of the hub is normal for a steel wheel, mine are exactly the same. Unlike the alloys the hub has no bearing on the fitment and enlightenment of the wheel so unlike an alloy they do not fit closely to it, This is because they centre on the wheel studs. Factory steel wheels have a "countersunk" area around the bolt hole for the nut to fit into, on new modular wheels it is just a flat face however a small countersink quickly forms as you tighten the nuts into it.

Exactly dag - I worked out as I tightened them down with the truck still up on the jack that the wheel was moving and centering as I tightening them down. As I've got the correct lug nuts, they very nicely fit the countersink on the wheel.
Worth noting that the above certainly does not apply to alloy wheels - they must fit the hub exactly or will be bearing load in a way they are not designed for.
Cheers for the reply.
Jock

BigJock2005 said:

My question was whether that gap affects the load-bearing capability of the wheel - i.e. is it safe.

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Posting at the same time, but the are definitely safe. I have had the same wheels as yours fitted for the last 200k with no issues.

BigJock2005 said:

I'll also remove after a couple of hundred miles and check the holes to see if there's been any detectable movement of the wheel.

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As they are new wheels I would recheck the torque regularly (weekly) for the first few months while they bed in and a suitably taper/countersink develops around the stud hole, which it will.