Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
They make a hub box spanner for these.
Think it’s 52mm
Think it’s 52mm
Hicap phill
Well-Known Member
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
a dot punch or chisel if you're caught short and in a hurry, they should not be that tight
Land Raver
Well-Known Member
The box spanner is worth buying. If you're keeping your Land Rover you'll get your money's worth from it.
Chisels are for bodgers (and wood carvers).
Chisels are for bodgers (and wood carvers).
Advice I've learned the hard way! I now have a couple of lock washers, a coupe of decent seals and a spare seal land. I do around 3000 miles a year and every 2 years it seems one brake will start to get oily. Now I can swap out a seal, set the end float and back up in around an hour. Used to be a 2 day wait for parts and 4 hours work.
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
It's a nice idea Huddy but there isn't a torque figure given for the hub nuts as far as I know...?
tottot
Well-Known Member
Yes, no need for a torque wrench on this job.
" my wheel bearings are knackerd again even though I torqued them up right " they say. Torque wrenches are not precision tools [ at least not the ones we use ] But fingers are.
Been driving series for 46 years and have only twice renewed a set of wheel bearings on mine and that was because they went dry.
" my wheel bearings are knackerd again even though I torqued them up right " they say. Torque wrenches are not precision tools [ at least not the ones we use ] But fingers are.
Been driving series for 46 years and have only twice renewed a set of wheel bearings on mine and that was because they went dry.
While we're on this I seem to be takeing hubs off every few weeks, it certainly feels that way. Bearings are always great condition but studs get loose and seals fail (I now only fit Corteco - so far so good) but setting the end float is a pain - I use a dial gauge and mag base. I'm sure its quicker and more accurate to tighten, back off with an allowance for the lock nut (which takes the play out the thread). I did work it out from the pitch and I've been experimenting, it seems to be around 1 to 1 1/2 flats. Anyone got else got a rule of thumb?
Extreedoc
Well-Known Member
Never bothered to work it out by thread pitch or flats on the nuts, I just do it by trial: if it is too tight, or not tight enough, (I mean end-float), I adjust the inner nut accordingly until I have about 1/16" play at the wheel rim with both nuts locked. Regarding torque: all we are aiming to achieve is to lock the two hub nuts together so that, with the lock washer also doing its job, the nuts don't come loose. All this done with the road wheel fitted.
steve2286w
Well-Known Member
I’m a bit spoilt got two torque wrenches and wanting a little 3rd so I don’t over tighten rocker cover gaskets which can make them leak, I’ve also got a hub spanner which I use , it’s a good tip to store spanners in the middleI’ve never owned either a box spanner or a torque wrench.
Never had a wheel bearing fail on me yet.
Perhaps they’ll be an app for them soon
My earlier reply was really if OP was in a hurry to get job done you can get them off without one without having to wait for the postman a few days later
