Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
doobreydog
Active Member
I have used both types on both steel & ally wheels with no problems...
Personally cant see any difference in the curvature on face and think the main reason is the steel ones look ****e on allys leaving the ends of threads in veiw and the ally ones dont allow you to put the plastic center caps on steels....
Unless someone knows better....???? Treworgey???
Personally cant see any difference in the curvature on face and think the main reason is the steel ones look ****e on allys leaving the ends of threads in veiw and the ally ones dont allow you to put the plastic center caps on steels....
Unless someone knows better....???? Treworgey???
Trewey
Cockernee, Pasty munchin bastid.
This has been covered many times before.
The holes in steel wheels are a loose fit on the stud. The wheel is secured and centred by matching tapers on the bottom of the nut and in the outside of the hole in the wheel.
The holes in alloy wheels are a snug fit on the stud. There is no taper on the hut or in the hole. The wheel is secured by the tension in the stud clamping the flat-bottomed nut to the flat surface of the wheel.
If you use the wrong combination of nut and wheel, your wheels will fall off eventually. Either because the wheel nut works loose, or because the nut gets pulled through the wheel hole by the tremendous lateral forces when cornering.
The holes in steel wheels are a loose fit on the stud. The wheel is secured and centred by matching tapers on the bottom of the nut and in the outside of the hole in the wheel.
The holes in alloy wheels are a snug fit on the stud. There is no taper on the hut or in the hole. The wheel is secured by the tension in the stud clamping the flat-bottomed nut to the flat surface of the wheel.
If you use the wrong combination of nut and wheel, your wheels will fall off eventually. Either because the wheel nut works loose, or because the nut gets pulled through the wheel hole by the tremendous lateral forces when cornering.
