um,i bought a hub off ebay for q £10.00 to play with.
My little clarke 10 press pushed it out no problem,tight yes but it did it. No releasing fluid as i wanted to know if it would do it or not. The hub wasnt an "in use " one as it was rusted to heck and back but the little press did it without too much bother oh it was a front hub
 
That kid needs a purpose in life. What he is doing now is not cutting the mustard. :D:D
 
Interestingly or not, I took mine to my mechanic to change the CV joint last week. Whilst he had the hub off he tried a Disco 2 hub to check fitment out of curiosity. Apparently they fit. Only difference is the ABS sensor position on the Disco hub (that can be blanked off to use the existing P38 sensor). Considering the difference in price, worth mentioning / looking into?
 
martynv8 said:
Interestingly or not, I took mine to my mechanic to change the CV joint last week. Whilst he had the hub off he tried a Disco 2 hub to check fitment out of curiosity. Apparently they fit. Only difference is the ABS sensor position on the Disco hub (that can be blanked off to use the existing P38 sensor). Considering the difference in price, worth mentioning / looking into?
Click to expand...

How much is the Disco 2 hub?
 
Grrrrrr said:
How much is the Disco 2 hub?
Click to expand...

Disco 2 hub and bearing. £78.00 after market. £150.00 OEM. £411.91 Genuine.

P38. Bearing £64.00. OEM hub and bearing. £234.00. Genuine hub and bearing. £539.00.

I would not even think of fitting a Disco 2 hub to a P38. The Disco 2 hub does not have the protective shield for the reluctor ring.
 
Not worth penny pinching on £70 for OEM then. Will bear that in mind when the inevitable occurs!
 
apologies been rough with this dreaded 100 day cough/cold.
Jacked her up removed front propshaft ,drove it on blocks and all quiet.
Took the rear off and attached the front ,tried driving it but after about 15 seconds the engine would almost stall . Think it musty be something to to with the traction control.
When the front wheels were up i took the wheels off,hub nut off and removed the hub. Front right seemed ok then the front left,ouch gaunchy to say the least. Pushed the bearing out with my clark 10 tonne press,fitted a new bearing off henderson bearings £37 .oo inc vat and delivery. Pressed it in and re assembled,now shes a lovely quieter motor again.
Thanks to all who commented/replied
 
With a 10 Ton press? Hmmm.......... I had to struggle with a 30 Ton press to get my front left bearing out.
But the replacement was a piece of cake.
 
trick is to load up the pressure then a sharp tap with a hammer!
or heat, oil and a dead fish.
 
as the ole girl had been stood so long i failed to get the abs sensor out . by careful "wobbling" of the hub i managed to wiggle the hub out. Managed to refit it the same way and thankfully the abs works ok .
Yep an old clarke 10 tonne bench press did the job ,guess i was lucky.Mind you the hub off ebay was an old fully rusted up one. Must have been an early one as it has a proper thick Circlip whilst the more modern one off the car itself has the newer thinner sort of snap ring in it with no circlip "eyes " so to speak just tapered ends.
New one pressed in fine .
Dont know how long the Henderson bearing at £37.00 will last but it has a two year warranty so hopefully i'll get twelve months
Mind you with the bearing rumble /roar sorted it's a different motor no rumble on either right or left lock
 
Any instructions to remove bearing in hub , , I've a press , is there clips ? .any help be great.. ,thank you .
I really haven't a clue
 
Last edited:
Mcgill84 said:
Any instructions to remove bearing in hub , , I've a press , is there clips ? .any help be great.. ,thank you .
I really haven't a clue
Click to expand...
I've had a go at splitting a front bearing and at the end of it all I'm glad I bought the whole assembly new.. Expensive I know....
 
Mark Piercy said:
I've had a go at splitting a front bearing and at the end of it all I'm glad I bought the whole assembly new.. Expensive I know....
Click to expand...
I'm beginning to think that , probably over confident after getting the big ball joints out ..
" I have a cunning plan " , , if I use the 4 hub bearing mounting holes to insert long bolts ,so when I tighten up ,they will push up against the hub itself , and magically push hub away, ..daft or impossible? .
 
Mcgill84 said:
I'm beginning to think that , probably over confident after getting the big ball joints out ..
" I have a cunning plan " , , if I use the 4 hub bearing mounting holes to insert long bolts ,so when I tighten up ,they will push up against the hub itself , and magically push hub away, ..daft or impossible? .
Click to expand...
A helping of penetrant oil as well. You can undo the bolts so far and hit the heads which can help to dislodge the hub. Ive used chisels before and dressed the surfaces afterwards. Just don't chisel near the bolt holes as this can deform them.
Wire brush the hole where the hub goes into the hub carrier and a touch of copper grease. 👍
 
I didn't have much luck with hitting the 4 hub bolts from behind. So I fitted an old worn disc, and hit that with big lump hammer. Hub came out in 5 mins.
 
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