I thought my RHS wheel bearing was on the way out as when freewheeling down a hill I could hear a whirring noise when going around a left bend. I noticed yesterday that the noise is apparent on the LHS side too, not as loud but there none the less.

I can't feel any play in the wheels and spinning them they seem OK, no graunchy noises. In a straight line there are no adverse noises (that i can hear).

I do have a slight weepage from the from diff seal - could it be that it's not the wheel bearings at all, but the diff getting low on oil ??

Any advice gratefully received. Amen

over run noise is classic diff pinion bearings ,seal may be leaking as its worn or breathers blocked etc but could be also play in diff flange due o worn bearings ,so it could be, check for play /end float ,any at all it needs looking at

jamesmartin said:

check for play /end float ,any at all it needs looking at

Click to expand...

Scuse my ignorance ... how ?

your hands

miktdish said:

Scuse my ignorance ... how ?

Click to expand...

grab it and push pull wobble rag drag spin and any other directional waggling you can thing of.

If you are hearing strange noises primarily when off load but cornering it may also be worth checking the CV joints inside the chrome tractor ball, if you have already elliminated the wheel bearings from your list of possible faults, the diff seal may be leaking a bit but unless it has been leaking for an awful long time it is unlikely to have gobbed all its oil out of there. however a quick check of diff level and feel for any freeplay at the prop would not go amiss. to check the CV joints, it is much the same procedure as checking your wheel bearings, jack up the front axle and support on axle stands, with wheels on check for wheel bearing play by grabbing the top and bottom of the wheel with both hands and pushing in with one hand while pulling the wheel out towards you with the other, the wheels circumference will give you more leverage and you will feel any "play in the bearing through the wheel hub assembly, ideally you should feel hardly any side movement and the wheel should be free to spin. to then check the CV joint, have an assistant turn the steering on full lock and you spin the wheel, listen for any nasty graunchy sounds on one lock, then the other lock and also while the wheels are being turned through the sweep of lock to lock, this will usually reveal any gremlins, unless they are only just starting to develop and the joint is not yet worn enough to be noisey in a no load situation. it is also well worth checking the swivel joint oil/grease level while you have the vehicle jacked up as it is easier to get to the little level plugs with the steering over on lock. You do not say what age your landy is but the later ones had a shimmed spacer between the wheel bearings in the hub and when they get a bit worn can cause this symptom, if there is not excessive wear you can replace the stape nut with the old conventional twin nut and lock tab arrangement, bin the spacer, re grease the bearings and adjust the hub up in the old style way. if you don't yet have one the Haynes manuals do give nice step by step photos and instructions, to lead you through the process. I hope this helps, Mark

Thanks for that Mark, a clear explanation, just what I was asking for )

I have to go off to work for a couple of weeks but when i'm back this is on the agenda.