grumbleweed

grumbleweed

New Member
How hot should the wheel bearing get- i have adjusted mine as there was some play in the front ones, and after a drive, it is hot to touch.

I didn't check how hot it was before i adjusted them. They are now well greased- should i worry?

It isn't too hot to keep your finger on it, but hot nonetheless!!
 
are they noisey?

do they feel notchy when you turn the wheel with it jacked up?

if the answer is yes to either they are shot :D
 
Not at all. No noise, just needed checking before holiday. GOt lots of grease now but just wanted to check i'd done it right!
 
The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts

Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.

I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
 
grumbleweed said:
my torque wrench doesn't manage that!!!

If doing it by feel- what are you looking for?
Click to expand...

a siezed bearing or a wheel falling off?
my 1/4" drive torque wrench cost me £15.
personally, I don't guess or "feel" with critical parts like that.
 
had a mate check them for me. They were a little tight, so we have backed it off and set it right. At least i know it is ok now! and a little wiser for it.
 
Treworgey 90 said:
a siezed bearing or a wheel falling off?
my 1/4" drive torque wrench cost me £15.
personally, I don't guess or "feel" with critical parts like that.
Click to expand...


and a £15 torque wrench is going to be accurate for how long?

mine cost me £50 about 6yrs ago :D
 
Its the price of the socket i would be more concerned with. Last time i looked they cost a bomb, thats why i just have the box spanner. Again i do it by feel then stress for the next 300 miles and then i dont worry after that :D

G
 
Griffdowg said:
Its the price of the socket i would be more concerned with. Last time i looked they cost a bomb, thats why i just have the box spanner. Again i do it by feel then stress for the next 300 miles and then i dont worry after that :D

G
Click to expand...

bet the socket is as much as a DECENT torque wrench :eek:
 
iannotts said:
and a £15 torque wrench is going to be accurate for how long?

mine cost me £50 about 6yrs ago :D
Click to expand...

Yer gorra be patient and lucky with flea-bay. It may have cost me £15, but a new one from a tool supplier (same make / model) is £179.
 
and you only need a cheap socket or a box spanner with a square hole (for the wrench) for hub nuts - we're only talking 65Nm after all.
 
Treworgey 90 said:
The correct way to adjust wheel bearings and tighten hub nuts

Tighten the inner hub nut to 65Nm and spin the hub to settle the bearings.
Back off the inner hub nut 1/2 a turn and re-tighten to 4Nm.
Fit the tab washer.
Fit the outer hub nut and tighten to 65Nm, without allowing the inner nut to move.
Bend the tab washer over both nuts.
Simple.

I've got a 52mm 3/4" drive socket, which I use with a combination of reducers and my 1/2" and 1/4" drive torque wrenches to do the above.
Click to expand...
The key here surely isn't the 65Nm, which is just to settle the bearings and take any excess grease and slack out, but the 4Nm for the final setting, as previously stated a "just right" amount of pre-load. i.e. not mutch!
Maybe your heat in the hubs came through from the brakes, just a thought.
 
jzcktv said:
The key here surely isn't the 65Nm, which is just to settle the bearings and take any excess grease and slack out, but the 4Nm for the final setting, as previously stated a "just right" amount of pre-load. i.e. not mutch!
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
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