Timdb

Timdb

Member
Hi I fitted new front o/s wheel bearing 6 months ago and it started whining and squeeling, I pulled up and jacked up and found lots of play . I took cap off that hs 6 bolts and circlip and found it dry as a bone, I didn't want to pull disc and hub off incase bearings were loose and I needed to limp home.
I asume I have overtightend it when first fitted.
I thought I was carefull not to overtighten it and gave it a spin when I fitted it and drove it then checked again and seemed fine.
I was taught to do it up then knock it back a bit then check it runs free.
I did use bearing Greece for high temp.
 
Timdb said:
Hi I fitted new front o/s wheel bearing 6 months ago and it started whining and squeeling, I pulled up and jacked up and found lots of play . I took cap off that hs 6 bolts and circlip and found it dry as a bone, I didn't want to pull disc and hub off incase bearings were loose and I needed to limp home.
I asume I have overtightend it when first fitted.
I thought I was carefull not to overtighten it and gave it a spin when I fitted it and drove it then checked again and seemed fine.
I was taught to do it up then knock it back a bit then check it runs free.
I did use bearing Greece for high temp.
Click to expand...
to adjust the wheel bearing you do nip it up to seat the bearings then back off till theres free play then carefully JUST remove any play then fit tab washer and second nut and fully tighten it ensuring both nuts get tabbed
 
I've always done taper roller wheel bearings by doing up until the wheel doesn't spin free & easy - keep spinning the wheel while you're doing this.
Then back off until - with wheel & tyre fitted - I can JUST detect freeplay when gripping the wheel at 12 & 6.
Never had an issue or problem with MoT.
I did overtighten a front hub taper roller bearing on the Scimitar I had at the time & it self-destructed requiring recovery. The temp had got so high that the inner race of the inner bearing had welded itself to the stub axle. That was fun to get off.
 
You don't say which make of wheel bearing you fitted... if it was a blue box special, then, I'm not surprised.

Timken only IMHO - check RAVE for the LR way of fitting them - there are vids on the tube of you anorl....

It is, as said above a two stage process - LR state first stage is tighten to 110 Nm (IIRC), and then second stage is slacken off and retighten to 4Nm. I've done this, for, er, a while ... and not had one fail yet...

Also - have a nosy at the video's concerning running the bearings in oil, rather than grease - it's interesting if nothing else - I use Castrol Pyroplex Red for all wheel bearings.....

Did I mention to only use Timken bearings?? :D
 
Al2O3 said:
How long have you used that? If you don't mind me asking.
Click to expand...

I don't mind at all :) Probably 10 to 12 years, as a guess - can't remember when it became available - and IIRC, Castrol have changed the name (again) recently.

About six months ago, I rebuilt some track rollers for a 360 digder - machined new plain bearings etc, and then pumped 'em full of "red" - they're still working... though in reality, that might be better stated as still tolerating a life of extremely mucky nastiness :D

They do a blue as well - much higher spec .... but quite a bit more expensive too :rolleyes: - but it is really good stuff. IME it's not too good - it doesn't seem to be so slippy it stops the rollers rolling :eek: - which can be a problem o_O .... more likely in plain needle roller bearings, rather than taper ;)
 
Disco1BFG said:
I don't mind at all :) Probably 10 to 12 years, as a guess - can't remember when it became available - and IIRC, Castrol have changed the name (again) recently.

About six months ago, I rebuilt some track rollers for a 360 digder - machined new plain bearings etc, and then pumped 'em full of "red" - they're still working... though in reality, that might be better stated as still tolerating a life of extremely mucky nastiness :D

They do a blue as well - much higher spec .... but quite a bit more expensive too :rolleyes: - but it is really good stuff. IME it's not too good - it doesn't seem to be so slippy it stops the rollers rolling :eek: - which can be a problem o_O .... more likely in plain needle roller bearings, rather than taper ;)
Click to expand...
Cheers. I'll order some for mine. I've got front wheel bearings and swivels waiting to go in to mine when I get the time. :oops:
 
Al2O3 said:
Cheers. I'll order some for mine. I've got front wheel bearings and swivels waiting to go in to mine when I get the time. :oops:
Click to expand...

Always worth a chat with castrol technical IMHO - they are very good, and like "unusual" enquiries....

They might even tell you today's name for it too - the marketing, er, .... "types" :rolleyes::mad: will probably have changed the name again by now :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:..

A pal of mine is building a working 1/4 scale replica of a WW1 locomotive - and didn't know what to use in the gearbox he has made (from scratch) .... he spoke to castrol, and they were really interested, and got proper involved :) ..... even taking his point loading calc's into consideration .....:)
 
Al2O3 said:
Cheers. I'll order some for mine. I've got front wheel bearings and swivels waiting to go in to mine when I get the time. :oops:
Click to expand...

I can send you a tube if you want .... should do all four wheels and your UJ's too....:)
 
The multipurpose EP2 grease in my grease gun is good to 140 degrees C. The Castrol High Temp grease is only good to 150 degrees, so not much in it! :confused:
 
Al2O3 said:
The multipurpose EP2 grease in my grease gun is good to 140 degrees C. The Castrol High Temp grease is only good to 150 degrees, so not much in it! :confused:
Click to expand...
unless bearings buggered they never get anywhere near hot so no issue, id say theres little difference in life expectancy of wheel bearings running grease or oil as they used to aslong as they dont get contaminated with muddy water
 
jamesmartin said:
unless bearings buggered they never get anywhere near hot so no issue, id say theres little difference in life expectancy of wheel bearings running grease or oil as they used to aslong as they dont get contaminated with muddy water
Click to expand...
Do you use owt special or Lithium EP2 type grease?
 
jamesmartin said:
no just standard grease,its all they need
Click to expand...
Been looking at 'high temp' wheel bearing grease on a a couple of the favourite online buying sites and a lot of it ranges from 105 degrees to 135 degrees. less that my standard Lithium Ep2 at 140 degrees! Bonkas!
 
Al2O3 said:
Been looking at 'high temp' wheel bearing grease on a a couple of the favourite online buying sites and a lot of it ranges from 105 degrees to 135 degrees. less that my standard Lithium Ep2 at 140 degrees! Bonkas!
Click to expand...
marine grease is useful for boat trailers and boat launching vehicles ,but thats all id consider
 
jamesmartin said:
to adjust the wheel bearing you do nip it up to seat the bearings then back off till theres free play then carefully JUST remove any play then fit tab washer and second nut and fully tighten it ensuring both nuts get tabbed
Click to expand...
I can't of hit it home properly when I fitted new bearing as lock tap had not moved.
I assume when driving it I have moved bearing home causing play and over heating it.
School boy era.
 
Timdb said:
I can't of hit it home properly when I fitted new bearing as lock tap had not moved.
I assume when driving it I have moved bearing home causing play and over heating it.
School boy era.
Click to expand...
Were you drunk while typing this or having a very bad attack of autocorrect?:D
 
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