everything
Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Clutch wins hands down. Bastard of a job on any LR.
especially if some plumb has glued carpet and sound proofing down
MrNasty
Well-Known Member
Washer jet replacement on the bulkhead Td5 with the silly metal bar above the thread that requires eight inch thin fingers and all sorts of surgical implements to install a £7 part, and changing a clutch on any Defender or RR classic why does that have to be such a drama eh? I will never do one again., oh and getting those bolts off the axle that hold the swivels on, Land Rover must have used a liberal amount of their patented Rust-Lock thread sealant on those.
While I'm at it, bloody Defender door cards suck too, always results in needing packs of new fixings and a new part of some description.
What else? Removing front radius arm bushes and then trying to get the new ones in, another job that takes far too long by half.
While I'm at it, bloody Defender door cards suck too, always results in needing packs of new fixings and a new part of some description.
What else? Removing front radius arm bushes and then trying to get the new ones in, another job that takes far too long by half.
wattfield
AKA Dirk Diggler
I think mine needs complete rewiring. I've already had to bodge a brake light wire & a rear light wire because they're broken inside the looms. Thankfully I'm friendly with a good garage owner & they have a good autoelectrician. Still going to be an expensive job, especially when I need new doors too.
cornish rattler
Well-Known Member
Drilling out and re-tapping to bigger size holes in the timing case as i had to remove the engine just to drill and re-tap two holes ( damage was caused before i bought my 90 ) presume the engine was smacked at some point as there was only 1 out of 4 bolts holding the power steer pump bracket on 
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Shifty1962
Well-Known Member
Really? I can take my starter out in less than 15 minutes. Its been on and off so many times I can do it in my sleep. Three bolts and two connectors plus a bit of wiggling. I really should fit the solenoid repair kit rather than keep cleaning up the existing contacts.
However it took me two long days to change a clutch as I found it easier to take the engine out. This also gave me access to clean and paint the chassis and firewall.
top drive
Well-Known Member
you can wiggle to your hearts content on my landy.....
there isnt a gap big enough for the starters smallest dimension - up top or down below.
you have to drop the exhaust and the turbo feed/return pipes to get it out.
Clutch is just floor plates/seat box/tranny tunnel out.
Drop props , remove the slave cylinder
undo engine mounts to allow engine to rock , remove gear box mounts and undo bellhousing bolts - slide it back.
Admittedly if your landys 20 years old and half that stuff never been out it will take forever....
there isnt a gap big enough for the starters smallest dimension - up top or down below.
you have to drop the exhaust and the turbo feed/return pipes to get it out.
Clutch is just floor plates/seat box/tranny tunnel out.
Drop props , remove the slave cylinder
undo engine mounts to allow engine to rock , remove gear box mounts and undo bellhousing bolts - slide it back.
Admittedly if your landys 20 years old and half that stuff never been out it will take forever....
Turboman
Mab An Gov
My starter isn't easy to get out either. I always remove the exhaust downpipe, no intercooler pipes on mine.
Think shifty has Td5, which have a bit better access to some things, clutch slave is another.
Nice clutch method!
Might be an idea to say to support the gearbox on something before sliding it back! 
