dirtydiscov8
New Member
As title, just wondering what sort of oil pressure people are getting from the v8's?
dirtydiscov8
New Member
any oil pressure in a v8 is a bonus.
Exactly, i know they have a low pressure but was just seeing what other peoples was. Mines 34psi when cold dropping about 20psi of that when hot on idle!
I've heard that the v8 is designed to run a high quantity of oil and not a high pressure, sounds like rubbish to me!
Soloby Rob
Banned
Does my bum look big in this???
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
Yep it's a high volume low pressure engine, designed to chug thick oil slow more than squirt thin oil fast!
However I have just today received a few fittings to fit my oil pressure guage so I'll let you know, and this is on a 750 mile engine so it should be nice and high!!!
Cheers
However I have just today received a few fittings to fit my oil pressure guage so I'll let you know, and this is on a 750 mile engine so it should be nice and high!!!
Cheers
MGBGTV8
Active Member
Rover V8's are pretty simple engines and last many miles between rebuilds. The above info is correct in that it's a high volume low pressure system. So long as you see a minimum of 20 hot idle it's fine. It would usually indicate that this engine is getting a bit long in the tooth but still perfectly servicable? If you have recently rebuilt it, you aught to consider a new set of pump gears and refacing the oil pump base plate. You can do this at home by glueing a sheet of emery paper to a sheet of glass and rubbing the machined face of the plate against the emery paper.
Just make sure you use either 20w50 oil or 15w40 and renew it every 3000 miles.
Just make sure you use either 20w50 oil or 15w40 and renew it every 3000 miles.
MGBGTV8
Active Member
Hello Mr Noisy,
Thank you for the warm welcome. I quite agree with you that the anodising coating is essential - soft ally will be eroded quite quickly by the pump gears. It goes without saying that the pump base should be re anodised after re-facing the machined surface - I guess I should have clarified that in my previous post.
Having said that, until now, my background with RV8’s has been in MGB's where a remote oil filter is used. A new base plate for an MGB V8 is almost £200 so it works out much cheaper to reface and re-anodise what you have. Given that the conventional system of filter on pump base is used in LR's and that there are so many of them around it may well be the case that it is not so cost effective to restore rather than to replace.
I'm still trying to get a feeling as to who are the preferred parts suppliers to visit having only very recently returned to the marque!
Cheers,
Jon.
Thank you for the warm welcome. I quite agree with you that the anodising coating is essential - soft ally will be eroded quite quickly by the pump gears. It goes without saying that the pump base should be re anodised after re-facing the machined surface - I guess I should have clarified that in my previous post.
Having said that, until now, my background with RV8’s has been in MGB's where a remote oil filter is used. A new base plate for an MGB V8 is almost £200 so it works out much cheaper to reface and re-anodise what you have. Given that the conventional system of filter on pump base is used in LR's and that there are so many of them around it may well be the case that it is not so cost effective to restore rather than to replace.
I'm still trying to get a feeling as to who are the preferred parts suppliers to visit having only very recently returned to the marque!
Cheers,
Jon.
fett
Well-Known Member
welcome, LR direct are the best place for parts I have come across.
I am getting 31 psi at super hot idle in the summer with oil temp of 91c
thats on a pre 76 rv8 but with the high volume oil pump gears fitted and a high pressure relief valve. I wonder if the 60 odd psi I am getting while hot driving is a little high tbh lol. maybe the valve was overkill
I am getting 31 psi at super hot idle in the summer with oil temp of 91c
thats on a pre 76 rv8 but with the high volume oil pump gears fitted and a high pressure relief valve. I wonder if the 60 odd psi I am getting while hot driving is a little high tbh lol. maybe the valve was overkill
MGBGTV8
Active Member
Fett, thank you for the heads up re: part supplier - I'll make a mental note.
My '75 MGB GT V8 with 39k on the clock (engine never been apart since the car was built) makes 40 hot idle. I once saw it drop to 35psi, however, when the electric fan relay burnt out and the temp gauge got 3/4 up the scale in heavy traffic with no cooling assistance.
I don't like the high oil pressure kits. They put a massive strain on the dizzy drive cog, particularly as the revs rise and there is a chance of stripping the teeth from the cog completely. A pal of mine had a high pressure oil kit fitted to his mgb gt v8 dragster and he sheered 3 dizzy drive cogs @ circa £75 a time until the problem was realised. Although, I would concede that the engine was making 80psi on a run and swallowing 300hp worth of nitrous oxide so it's perhaps I'm not comparing apples with apples...
I still think it an unnecessary modification for a road engine, though, when you consider that a Rover V8 ought to be capable of 200k between rebuilds provided proper service intervals are religiously stuck to?
My '75 MGB GT V8 with 39k on the clock (engine never been apart since the car was built) makes 40 hot idle. I once saw it drop to 35psi, however, when the electric fan relay burnt out and the temp gauge got 3/4 up the scale in heavy traffic with no cooling assistance.
I don't like the high oil pressure kits. They put a massive strain on the dizzy drive cog, particularly as the revs rise and there is a chance of stripping the teeth from the cog completely. A pal of mine had a high pressure oil kit fitted to his mgb gt v8 dragster and he sheered 3 dizzy drive cogs @ circa £75 a time until the problem was realised. Although, I would concede that the engine was making 80psi on a run and swallowing 300hp worth of nitrous oxide so it's perhaps I'm not comparing apples with apples...
I still think it an unnecessary modification for a road engine, though, when you consider that a Rover V8 ought to be capable of 200k between rebuilds provided proper service intervals are religiously stuck to?
fett
Well-Known Member
what pressure are you making at hot road speed? with 40 at idle it must be off the scale like mine?
I totally agree with the drive gear, to be honest I only discovered that as a concern this year while reading on the p6 forum. the high pressure relief valve was not in the kit with the rest of it but was advised by the so called landrover expert at the time (since outed as a ****e operator in my book). he also refaced the oil pump face and did not mention that it would need re-anodising for a proper job.
Anyway he was sacked off about a year or two ago and I have done all my own work since. Back to the drive gear, I wonder if the post 76 drive gears are tougher to cope with the bigger sd1 oil pump? all that high volume kit does is make the pump the same size as the sd1 pump as far as I can tell. not heard of the problem on the later engine so it would be good to know
I totally agree with the drive gear, to be honest I only discovered that as a concern this year while reading on the p6 forum. the high pressure relief valve was not in the kit with the rest of it but was advised by the so called landrover expert at the time (since outed as a ****e operator in my book). he also refaced the oil pump face and did not mention that it would need re-anodising for a proper job.
Anyway he was sacked off about a year or two ago and I have done all my own work since. Back to the drive gear, I wonder if the post 76 drive gears are tougher to cope with the bigger sd1 oil pump? all that high volume kit does is make the pump the same size as the sd1 pump as far as I can tell. not heard of the problem on the later engine so it would be good to know
