[JP]

[JP]

New Member
Was looking at suspension kits for the 90…just looking really as its not my main priority at the moment…

If I eventually get one, will more than likely be Terrafirma, due to what I've heard of being good value for money..
but was looking at it and then there's suspension turrets -2", shocks +5… wtf is this?

does this mean that if I get a 2" lift kit and add -2" suspension turrets the Defender will sit higher than if I only have the 2" lift kit?

don’t quite get all these variations on suspension components…..
can anyone explain please?

cheers
JP
 
hi mate

+5 shocks means that the shocks travel an extra 5 inches than the standard shocks,

-2 turrets are 2inches shorter than standard turrets which gives the shocks an extra 2 inch travel

its only the springs that lift the vehicle, the shocks wont make any difference to height.

the longer the shocks or lower the turrets are gives you more axle articulation
 
haa right!
that makes sense... think my brain wasnt working properly!

So as I quite like the play around with articulation, crossing deeps ruts and ****, i would probably be better with a 2" lift and -2 turrets I suppose?
 
yeah that will be ok

if you get a 2" lift kit i think the shocks are 2" longer, so if you get -2" turrets aswell you would get an extra 4" travel, might be worth getting the dislocation cones too
 
ho yes, definately getting dislocation cones as well, in the disco I keep hearing the springs poping into place, so the Defender is likely to go through the same....
 
steve24v said:
yeah that will be ok

if you get a 2" lift kit i think the shocks are 2" longer, so if you get -2" turrets aswell you would get an extra 4" travel, might be worth getting the dislocation cones too
Click to expand...


Ok so i am planning on getting a terrafirma Pro Sport 2 inch lift kit medium :cool: .. i am thinking about adding the -2 " turrets.. does this mean that the front would be 2 inches shorter than the rear??
I also see on the site they say that the Front shock turret securing rings &
Coil spring retaining plates are necessary to install the front dislocation cones.. is it necessary?
and is it neccesary to have rear spring dislocation cones as well??

someone told me that these are necessary once lifting a landy :- Caster corrected front radius arms & Cranked rear radius arms.. is this true?
 
Hi mate,

if you meen the overall height of vehicle would be shorter on the front then no. The springs should make the vehicle sit level with or without the -2 turrets. All you will get is an extra 2 inches of travel unless the shocks are 2 inches longer than standard in which case you would get 4 inch travel.

Im not sure if you have to have the retaining plates and securing rings, it probably pays to though.

You dont have to have dislocation cones but your axle articulation is limited if you dont,
if you dont get dislocation cones then dont bother getting the -2 turrets.

Without the castor correction arms and cranked radius arms your uj's will where out quicker cuz when you lift the vehicle you're raising the g'box and t'box but the axles stay where they are so the props will be at a greater angle.

You will also need longer brake hoses too

Hope this helps
 
steve24v said:
Hi mate,


Im not sure if you have to have the retaining plates and securing rings, it probably pays to though.

You dont have to have dislocation cones but your axle articulation is limited if you dont,
if you dont get dislocation cones then dont bother getting the -2 turrets.

Hope this helps
Click to expand...


thats a load of rubbish

dislocation cones are there for the single purpose of guiding the springs back into place when they come unseated, they have no effect whatsoever on articulation

if you get -2 inch turrets on the front it is unlikely you will need cones on the front, although im not too sure bout deependers! you will need to have spring retainers on the back, HD is better, not on the front unless youve got a chance of the springs dislocating on the front which is unlikely unless youve got something like a +5 inch shock
 
steve24v said:
Without the castor correction arms and cranked radius arms your uj's will where out quicker cuz when you lift the vehicle you're raising the g'box and t'box but the axles stay where they are so the props will be at a greater angle.

You will also need longer brake hoses too
Click to expand...

Utter crap.

The purpose of castor correction, after a lift, is to restore the self-centering steering. Castor correction radius arms actually make UJ wear worse than un-corrected arms because they force the diff input downwards. Without castor correction arms, the axle tilts upwards slightly at the rear, giving a better prop angle than with correction arms.
The proper way to correct castor is with modified swivel balls or axle casing.

Cranked trailing arms improve the angle at the chassis end and reduce bush wear. They do nowt for the prop angle. You need to extend the A Frame to do that.

Best option is not to lift the fookin thing in the first place.

Oh, by the way,a 2" lift will also force the front axle off-centre to the nearside by about 6mm too, so more expence needed for an adjustable panhard rod, if yer gonna do a propper job.
 
Lifting a defender is too complicated... i think i would jus go with bigger tyres .. whats the biggest size i could go stock ?? 33" m/t ?? thanks .. and also is there a simpler way to lift?
 
265/75/16 is fine without a lift - just adjust the steering stops a little.
 
Getting the spring rate correct is more important than messing with dislocation , which might look good but not needed .
 
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