888

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So we have found the split vaccuum pipe. It will will now go over 70mph.
( out of interest. How quick does a diesel td4 go?)

Went to take the rear cover off the engine to check other pipes etc and came across a security bolt...
20181104_144402.jpg

So can somebody please tell me how this is described and size? I need to get one. So I can fit a new turbo filter and mod.
 
Looks like the security Torx bolt holding the Mass Air Flow sensor in. The whole black plastic piece unclips so that you can remove it and then do the MAF change. The turbo filter is hanging behind it and can be changed without touching the bolt. What mod do you want to do??
 
Apparently it wants a modified crank case breather putting in. So does all the back cover ( where the oil filler is) come off without the need for the torx bolt out?
You'll have to forgive me if these are daft simple questions but I know not what I do.
My mechanic couldn't work out why it was there
 
Yes, air filter cover off then crankcase cover off (from memory 5mm allen key). Don't touch the MAF. You may need to release some of the fuel pipes to allow the crankcase cover to come off.
 
Apparently it wants a modified crank case breather putting in. So does all the back cover ( where the oil filler is) come off without the need for the torx bolt out?
You'll have to forgive me if these are daft simple questions but I know not what I do.
My mechanic couldn't work out why it was there
The cover with the oil filler cap is the air filter cover - long 5mm allen key needed to remove it since there are two screws at the back that are a pain to get to.
The cover in front of that comes off with an 8mm socket I think - four bolts from memory, the crank case breather is under that front cover.
No need to take that torx bolt out to change the crank case breather.
Breather is under a plastic dome which is just in front of the air filter housing - more 5mm allen-head screws (including another one that is hard to spot).
You will need to unscrew the carrier for the fuel injector wiring (that is a small torx socket - sorry don't remember what size) and unplug the injectors - easy to do and they can only go back one way so no danger of getting it wrong.
It also improves access if you take of the fuel spill rail - a daisy chain of rubber/fabric pipes that connects the tops of the fuel injectors. Be careful with these, the plastic joints are notoriously fragile but not hard to remove from the injectors. Just move it out of the way and don't try to undo the pipes from the plastic T pieces.
Take off the breather cover, throw away the old filter which is probably a sticky black mess, fit new plastic oil separator (the modified breather) and put it all together again.
If you search this forum for crank case breather I am sure you will find pictures somewhere.
 
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Thanks for the help chaps, Sorted it all this afternoon.

However, Took the front cover off , Suddenly realised that the car needed moving. So picked the screws and cover up, struck it up and moved it.

So my Question is ....... Where the heck did all that oil come from? It even sprayed onto the windscreen. ( Lesson learned, it took ages to clean off the glass. The rest of the sprayed mess I can clean tomorrow.) I don't suppose it came out of one of the Bolt holes did it ?
 
If you took the stud out when taking engine cover off then it came out the hole in the cover where engine oil is pushed around!! Seal studs in with loctite to prevent repeat!
 
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If you took the stud out when taking engine cover off then it came out the hole in the cover where engine oil is pushed around!! Seal studs in with loctite to prevent repeat!
I don't think its leaking while the cover is on, As I had cleaned the engine bay after spilling power steering fluid all over the place. I think it must have come out of where the Stud / Bolt was. And now for the stupid Question ... ( I am an absolute waste of space with all this ) but if I use loctite does that glue the stud in?
 
I don't suppose it came out of one of the Bolt holes did it ?
I think it did! The bolt hole on the left side of the engine looking from the front of the car. The other bolts go into blind holes but with that one, the bolt goes through the cam cover and into a very oily bit of engine. If you leave the bolt out of the hole then you can get a lot of oil spluttering out of the hole but getting it on to the windscreen is quite an achievement - how high did you rev it?
 
I think it did! The bolt hole on the left side of the engine looking from the front of the car. The other bolts go into blind holes but with that one, the bolt goes through the cam cover and into a very oily bit of engine. If you leave the bolt out of the hole then you can get a lot of oil spluttering out of the hole but getting it on to the windscreen is quite an achievement - how high did you rev it?
I didn't Rev it hard lol... but I moved the car with the bonnet up. but yes the one on the left hand side. It went everywhere in every direction. Lesson learned.
 
I didn't Rev it hard lol... but I moved the car with the bonnet up. but yes the one on the left hand side. It went everywhere in every direction. Lesson learned.
Did you move the car before you changed the crankcase breather? If so and the old filter was clogged then you probably had excessive pressure in the crankcase and taking that bolt out gave you a ventilation hole / geyser. Good job that you fixed it with the new breather, excess pressure can lead to some nasty expensive problems.
 
Yes moved before the filter was changed.... now got the vortex mod in there. ( engine still playing up though)
 
What's up with the engine? Didn't see that mentioned in this thread.
The dreaded power loss at approx 70mph.... although we changed the vaccuum pipes and the filter. but tonight it hit the wall at 80mph ( along a private roadway of course)
 
The dreaded power loss at approx 70mph.... although we changed the vaccuum pipes and the filter. but tonight it hit the wall at 80mph ( along a private roadway of course)
Yup, hitting a wall at 80mph will definitely give you engine problems - like getting it out of the back seat.

If you get to a point where there is no more power available then usually you have either reached the limit of the system to supply fuel or the airflow is restricted or you have a sensor that is telling the engine management system that there is a problem (and it may or may not be lying). Do you have any diagnostic equipment that might be able to narrow down the options? If you don't have any electronic diagnostics then do you get any smoke signals from the exhaust or can you smell fuel either in the engine bay or the rear wheel arch or are there any noises from the fuel pump?

My guess would be that it is a fuel supply problem and the most popular ones are the low pressure pump / fuel filter or the high pressure regulator.
 
it had a new fuel pump fitted in the tank last year... No diagnostics but i think my mate has just acquired some. . No smoke at all.... cant smell anything cos my nose don't work ( seriously lol).
 
it had a new fuel pump fitted in the tank last year... No diagnostics but i think my mate has just acquired some. . No smoke at all.... cant smell anything cos my nose don't work ( seriously lol).
What year / mileage is the car?
Is the EGR valve blanked off and if not have you looked inside it for excessive gunk build-up - if it is stuck open then you will lose boost pressure.
Gunk in the inlet manifold can affect the manifold pressure sensor and give false readings which would in turn affect fueling.
Have you checked the intercooler hoses - you could be leaking air when the turbo is boosting but this would usually also give white smoke.
Easy checks to do without diagnostics.
 
What year / mileage is the car?
Is the EGR valve blanked off and if not have you looked inside it for excessive gunk build-up - if it is stuck open then you will lose boost pressure.
Gunk in the inlet manifold can affect the manifold pressure sensor and give false readings which would in turn affect fueling.
Have you checked the intercooler hoses - you could be leaking air when the turbo is boosting but this would usually also give white smoke.
Easy checks to do without diagnostics.
EGR not blanked. Intercooler Hoses replaced 6 months ago. Also taken off yesterday and clean. (ish)
 
EGR not blanked. Intercooler Hoses replaced 6 months ago. Also taken off yesterday and clean. (ish)
Sorry, I am catching up with the checks that you have already done but all information is useful and ruling out possibilities gets you closer to the answer. It still feels to me more like a fueling limitation.

You said that the fuel pump in the tank had been changed so I am guessing that your car is an early TD4. They had two low pressure pumps, the one in the tank and another on the left inner wing under the ECU box. If one has already given up then the other might be reaching the end of its life too. It is not easy to check fuel flow if the problem only occurs at speed so you are definitely going to need electronic assistance on the diagnostics.
Do you have the pump and filter shown in this thread? - https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-ro...-bonnet-fuel-pump-filter.170336/#post-1710361 and has the filter been changed recently?
 
Blodge.... I appreciate all and any help i can get with this. I really am about as much use as a 2 yr old when it comes to cars. But I have inherited the Hippo from the wife and I like the old bus. In answer to your Q's Its an 03 and i will look under the bonnet tomorrow.
 

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