BetMiddle

BetMiddle

New Member
have just bought my landy and want to get it lookin fly, whats the best option for this problem.....


DSC00057.jpg


and also this side.....


DSC00056.jpg



im also wanting to put my spare on the back rather than the front as i cant see fcuk all wen its on the bonnet. can i move the mounting bracket onto the back door?
looks like this....

DSC00068.jpg


and like this under the bonnet


DSC00066.jpg


thanks for your posts in advance :D
 
Bit of graft is all ... take all the rust off, wire brush etc, see how far the capping has gone and either repaint or replace it, repaint the ally if there's enough of it ... The lockplates might be repaired/replaced if you can get them.

Bonnets a bit different, it's very hard to remove bits that have been on for years without fairly hard work, patience and attention to detail. Personally I'd buy a swing away rear wheel holder so it doesn't hang-off the door ... ;)

A lot depends on what you want from it, personally I'd just take the rust back, treat it with some rust treatment and re-paint it. A few scabs and scars don't look out of place .. a couple of well-finished corners and locks can look out of place unless the rest of the Landy is also done.
 
ok cheers paul
my only concern with the rust is it looks like its all the way through and starting to make the metal underneath it rust aswell, this however is not rusted through so could be taken off and treated. the worst part has started to expand away from the metal underneath so it looks bowed in the photos.


with the bonnet if i get it off could i just place checker plating over the bonnet or would i need to fill the holes first?
allso whats the best option for attaching the checker plate, rivets or bolts?
 
Dunno, I don't like chequer plate and didn't use it on my S3, all I did was clean it up as best I could, used some ally netting, quite fine mesh underneath and some chemical metal to fill the holes, sanded and painted. Inside bonnet then made a small, very thin ally plate to cover the mesh and just tidie it all up and painted as best I could. Top looked brilliant, if I say so myself, but underneath was a bit rough.
 
Just replace the corner capping as they are cheap as chips to buy. Removal is just a case of drilling the rivets out. You'll have to lift the sides up to get the old one out & new oner in, obviously. But it isn't that difficult to do. You may find that the rest of them are rotten as well once you get the sides off though.
 
redhand said:
Just replace the corner capping as they are cheap as chips to buy. Removal is just a case of drilling the rivets out. You'll have to lift the sides up to get the old one out & new oner in, obviously. But it isn't that difficult to do. You may find that the rest of them are rotten as well once you get the sides off though.
Click to expand...

the ones down the sides aint cheap !!!
 
the bonnet wheel carrier wont fit on ya back door, butttttttttttttttttttt i got one for the back door :) interested ? but being in wales you might be able to get one closer.
 
ahh i see well hopefully i dont have to replace all that it looks like its just the cornor capping, just need to fine some replacements now n i can whip it off.
 
Taking the roof & sides off is an easy job. shouldn't take more than an hour. If you can find someone to give you a hand you can leave the sides attached to the roof and take em off in one piece.
 
I'd try to find some galvanised body cappings off an early 110 or a series III (would they fit?). No more rust then.
 
fenby1976 said:
I'd try to find some galvanised body cappings off an early 110 or a series III (would they fit?). No more rust then.
Click to expand...

If it needs the full capping replacing it's easier and cheaper to replace the full tub. and series 3 ones won't fit.
 
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