ciderman

Active Member
Just setting out for the first road run of my new, 1955 land rover and the brake lights are stuck on.
Why?
because the Bloody awful blue box brake light switch I found in the workshop had fallen to pieces.
I KNOW THEY DO THIS.
why did I use it? we couldn't fix it...
I am old enough to know better.
UTTER UTTER DUNG
 
Where can I buy a brake like switch? not made of plastic.............
Not Nasty and cheap.....
 
My brake switch fits to the servo and is a Lucas type made of brass. I suspect the one you're after fits to the pedal, right?
 
Yes- I have just ordered a Volvo one- I think I did this 4 land rovers ago.
made well and work.
Why did I fit it?
bah
 
Just ordered a Lucas brake light switch for the reverse lights, they should be brass and of better stuff. Lucas part number
SMB420, LR number 575166.
 
LR number 575166.

I thought that when I bought one of those Lucas switches for the standard two type 380 brake lamps on my 109. It didn't last long. Nor did its replacement.

I checked the current draw of the circuit, and it was exactly as expected, so, the current should have been easily handled by the switch if it were correctly designed and made. So, I concluded that the "Lucas" switches were not up to it.

I'm currently using a Bearmach branded switch which has been in place for about 10 months, and is still working. I must admit that, after my disappointing experience, I bought 2 switches, and now carry a spare and a 5/16W spanner to change it with.
 
Just ordered a Lucas brake light switch for the reverse lights, they should be brass and of better stuff. Lucas part number
SMB420, LR number 575166.
they might be or not, theres no such thing as lucas parts as was , ive spent hours trying to cure an indicator fault which meant been sure and trying 3 new lucas flasher units only too find in the end the new flasher units are ****
 
I’ll have you know a britpart headlight switch got me through my first mot and lasted a full 25 minutes into its maiden voyage before burning out.
I only put it on coz I’d bought it before finding the actual fault.
The original went back on and is still good three years later.
 
I’ll have you know a britpart headlight switch got me through my first mot and lasted a full 25 minutes into its maiden voyage before burning out.
I only put it on coz I’d bought it before finding the actual fault.
The original went back on and is still good three years later.
But have you any auxiliary lights loading the switch? I have a new Brit part switch on my 90 that has been fine and I do have lots or auxiliary driving lights but I made a loom - obviously this takes the load so wondered if this was part of the effect of you premature failiure
IMG_9220.JPG
 
But have you any auxiliary lights loading the switch? I have a new Brit part switch on my 90 that has been fine and I do have lots or auxiliary driving lights but I made a loom - obviously this takes the load so wondered if this was part of the effect of you premature failiure View attachment 140930
Nope everything as standard. Four side light bulbs and two sealed beam head lights.
 
I notice a lot of peeps on here have bad things to say about Brit part. Are they not good?
4 radiators, all faulty on arrival
1 exploding light switch
2 exhausts both leaking from silencer seam
1 wiper motor stop switch lasted three weeks
Pair of ball swivels had to buy better bearings that didn’t rumble when turned by hand.

I think they’re ace. :confused:
 
4 radiators, all faulty on arrival
1 exploding light switch
2 exhausts both leaking from silencer seam
1 wiper motor stop switch lasted three weeks
Pair of ball swivels had to buy better bearings that didn’t rumble when turned by hand.

I think they’re ace. :confused:
Is this irony!? Lol. Btw I am at the hotel and it's that crap misty rain. Bob where is the nice weather for Manchester
 

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