jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
look at cromwells two leg pullers http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...sg=AFQjCNG3rMw3IM0uC68sKNw1wPZAb4OuNA&cad=rja with a chain wrench like these to hold legs together http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rc...sg=AFQjCNGx5oLjoHtM9dkaILYFMAR8emxaaw&cad=rja
Station House
Well-Known Member
This guide of Buster's any help?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/drop-arm-ball-joint-renewal-63811.html
Farrar
Well-Known Member
Nice pictures but I wouldn't dare cut it off.!!!!!
petit_pablo
New Member
I cut mine off, tried a 3 leg puller and couldnt budge it.
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
you would have done if youd hit with a real hammer and long drift
FLAT ERIC
New Member
Give these guys a look. It ain't cheap but will probably work on tank tracks as well. 
HNJ Engineering - Series Land Rover Parts - Land Rover Special Tool 600000
HNJ Engineering - Series Land Rover Parts - Land Rover Special Tool 600000
Same problem here!
I've broken one 3 legged puller and 2 days of hitting it with a lump hammer hasn't shifted it at all.
Unless there's a clever solution, then Mr angle grinder is coming out to play.
Not too keen on that though, as lying underneath with a grinder , there's not a lot of room and swmbo is fed up with waiting at A&E lately!!!!
Beginning to think that it will be easier to put a new box in after all the abuse this one's had. Perhaps the answer is to take the box out, attack it on a bench and then put it (or a replacement) back. How hard are they to remove?
Malcolm
I've broken one 3 legged puller and 2 days of hitting it with a lump hammer hasn't shifted it at all.
Unless there's a clever solution, then Mr angle grinder is coming out to play.
Not too keen on that though, as lying underneath with a grinder , there's not a lot of room and swmbo is fed up with waiting at A&E lately!!!!
Beginning to think that it will be easier to put a new box in after all the abuse this one's had. Perhaps the answer is to take the box out, attack it on a bench and then put it (or a replacement) back. How hard are they to remove?
Malcolm
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
not to hard to remove ,but heavy to put back,i use a large drift with drivers wheel off with big hammer and pullers
Farrar
Well-Known Member
I've just cut mine off today and broke a puller trying to get it off. Wasn't to hard to cut. Got it nearly all the way through and then split it with a chisel. Did nick the spline a little with cutter but cleaned it up and new one straight on. Think if there on that hard it's probably the only way. Good luck.a
At the moment I'm having a cup of tea whilst I contemplate wtf the arm is made of! After a few more attempts with the lump hammer the head fell off
So out with the angle grinder - first problem, it's not too easy to get to the arm without damaging the bottom of the steering box, secondly having eventually cut through the arm (but not the splines) the bugger still won't move! :doh:
Next plan is to cut another section and see if I can get that off and then hopefully the arm itself.
I'm beginning to think it's been welded on but surely not.
Malcolm
So out with the angle grinder - first problem, it's not too easy to get to the arm without damaging the bottom of the steering box, secondly having eventually cut through the arm (but not the splines) the bugger still won't move! :doh:
Next plan is to cut another section and see if I can get that off and then hopefully the arm itself.
I'm beginning to think it's been welded on but surely not.
Malcolm
Yes!!! Got it off.
A new cutting disc, another cut in the arm and a few thumps with a new hammer has done it. Minor problem is that I've nicked a couple of the splines but I reckon the new arm (Disco straight one) will go on fine. Also I can now put the new steering arm plus tre's on now.
A good wire brushing plus some copper grease should mean if I ever need to (I certainly don't want to) take it off again it might not be so hard.
Definitely the worst job I've had to do on it so far.
Malcolm
A new cutting disc, another cut in the arm and a few thumps with a new hammer has done it. Minor problem is that I've nicked a couple of the splines but I reckon the new arm (Disco straight one) will go on fine. Also I can now put the new steering arm plus tre's on now.
A good wire brushing plus some copper grease should mean if I ever need to (I certainly don't want to) take it off again it might not be so hard.
Definitely the worst job I've had to do on it so far.
Malcolm
Farrar
Well-Known Member
What a relief when it finally comes off. I nicked the splines to. Are you putting disco one on a defender. I haven't done that but will probably wish I had when it knocks the ball joint out again. Could you post a picture of what you have done.
Will do, as soon as I can get a new locking washer. The large 60mm one seems a little difficult to come by at the moment and I'm loath to put the old one back.
I'm putting the straight Disco arm (with a good dollop of copper grease) on plus heavy duty drag link. As there are TRE's on both ends I'll be rid of the dreaded ball joint.
It's a fairly common upgrade and hopefully the hardest part is done getting that damn drop arm off.
Malcolm
I'm putting the straight Disco arm (with a good dollop of copper grease) on plus heavy duty drag link. As there are TRE's on both ends I'll be rid of the dreaded ball joint.
It's a fairly common upgrade and hopefully the hardest part is done getting that damn drop arm off.
Malcolm
Well here's what I took off
and this is what I had to do to the drop arm to get it off!
This will be the new set up, note need a bracket for the damper plus the fact that it's a TRE that fits into the drop arm, so much easier to change if it fails.
and this is what the new Disco drop arm looks like.
The plan is to put a similar bar on the track rod and have a nice beefy set up - oh plus a steering guard.
Malcolm
and this is what I had to do to the drop arm to get it off!
This will be the new set up, note need a bracket for the damper plus the fact that it's a TRE that fits into the drop arm, so much easier to change if it fails.
and this is what the new Disco drop arm looks like.
The plan is to put a similar bar on the track rod and have a nice beefy set up - oh plus a steering guard.
Malcolm
Just about got it all fitted now, but just one question. When the new drop arm is fitted, it doesn't go all the way to the top of the splines although I haven't fully tightened the nut yet. Should I use brute force to get it there or will tightening the nut up to 130ft/lb as per Rave, be adequate?
Malcolm
Malcolm
jamesmartin
Well-Known Member
it shouldnt go to top of splines as joint is a slow taper ,get it very tight then lock washer to nut and drop arm
Thanks for that, it looked like a very slight taper from underneath, just waiting for new lock washer - local LR place has had to order one from the factory. No one else locally has any. As soon as it arrives I'll torque the nut up and lock it off then, yipee, I can go out and play again.
Malcolm
, I can go out and play again.Malcolm
